2004 DRESS WITH DIAGONAL BORDERS AND CRIMP INSET

You need: sheer lace; stiff satin/sateen, sheer fatin (of two tinctures, for example, of lacteous white and cream white); stiff fatin, lace border of 4-5 cm width, lace pieces; fusing, zipper, metal/plastic bones, 2 chiffon flowers.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCES: 2 cm for left side seam (to stitch the zipper). 1 cm for other seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (minimal width is 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

PLEASE KEEP BEAM THREAD DIRECTION.

CUTTING:

Sateen/satin:

1. Back skirt – 2 pieces

2. All bodice pieces

3. All pipings

Fusing:

1. All bodice pieces

2. All pipings

Sheer fatin:

1. Crimp inset (skirt) – 1 piece

2. Front skirt – 1 piece

3. Back skirt – 2 pieces

Lace:

1. All bodice pieces

2. Front skirt – 1 piece

3. Back skirt – 2 pieces

Stiff fatin:

1. Underskirt – 1 folded piece

Lining:

1. Skirt

Trimming: use lace border of 4-5 cm width to stitch it under sateen diagonal pipings.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. All front upper pieces are of 1 layer of doubled sateen (to make them less transparent and stiff) and of 1 layer of lace. You can also use doubled sateen as bodice lining.

2. Set into all bodice seams metallic/plastic bones which are 2 cm shorter than seam length (to make sewing more comfortable).

3. Overlap additionally all bodice seams after stitching with pipings stitching them diagonally, as well as with lace border.

4. Skirt: 5 separate layers. Stitch upper layer of crimp fatin to back skirt’s upper layer of sheer lace. Stitch lace borders with zig zags along seams. Stitch lace borders also along skirt hem to trim lower edge.

5. Skirt second layer: stitch front skirt center piece of sheer lace to back skirt of satin.

6. Skirt third layer: stitch front skirt center piece of sheer fatin to back skirt of sheer fatin.

7. Skirt forth layer: underskirt of stiff fatin.

8. Skirt fifth layer: skirt lining.

9. Set the zipper into bodice side seam.

10. Sew lace border to ready bodice’s neckline.

11. Overlap joining of bodice and skirt with piping folded along the center and press as shown on piping’s pattern. Sew the piping when dress is on a mannequin.

12. Sew 2 chiffon flowers with crimp insets to skirt left side.