YOU
NEED: suit
fabric; lining for sackings; belt interfacing; 1 zipper of 20 cm length; 1
button.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1
Front part – 2 pieces
2
Back part – 2 pieces
3
Fly front (right side facing) – 1 piece
4
Front side part – 2 pieces
5
Waist right part – 1 piece
6
Waist left part – 1 piece
7
Button catch (for left side closure) – 1 piece
8
Off-set welt of back pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
9.
Front pocket sacking upper part – 2 pieces
10.
Front pocket sacking lower part – 2 pieces
11.
Waist pocket sacking – 2 pieces
INSTRICTIONS:
1.
Make pleats at front parts in accordance with arrow direction, then tack
them.
2.
SIDE POCKETS WITH CUT SIDES. Oversew the front part pockets’ entrances with
sacking upper parts, then stitch on 0.5 cm distance. Overstitch lower sackings
on trousers front side parts. Pin front parts on side ones, coinciding pocket
entrances with marked lines. Sew sackings from inside. Tuck sackings to front
parts.
3.
THE ZIPPER. Sew front middle sew from slit mark down for 4 cm. Oversew right
side of slit with the fly front, then trim. Fold slit left side allowances into
wrong side and place the zipper under the fold, so that teeth are closely to the
fold. Oversew the button catch neatly along the rounded lengthwise side. Tuck
both lengthwise edges of the button catch under the slit left side. Topstitch
slit left side along the edge, catching the zipper and the button catch. Pin the
slit. Pin zipper free braid to the fly front, then stitch. Do not catch trousers
right part. Topstitch right part along marked line, catching the fly
front.
4.
Sew back darts.
5.
MAKE CUT POCKETS WITH OFF-SET WELT WITH SEW-IN ENDS into back parts. To do this,
press 4 cm stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking.
Turn long side allowance of valance under, then topstitch the valance on back
sacking. Sew the Ëèñòî÷êó
and sacking to trousers back part, right sides together, them stitch along the
corresponding joining lines. Cut the hole between stitched lines, cutting stitch
ends diagonally. Be careful with pocket details when cutting! Press apart
joining seams allowances. Pull the sacking to the wrong side though the hole.
Turn off-set welt to the wrong side. Make it so that its fold reaches the sack
joining seam. Stitch off-set welt into joining seam from the right side. Stitch
the second sacking to off-set welt allowances form the wrong side. Turn small
triangles at hole ends into wrong side, then topstitch on the ëèñòî÷êó
from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. Cut sackings equally, then
stitch.
6.
THE WAIST. Stitch waist details to trousers upper edges. Stitching the allowance
under waist closure to the button catch. Fold the waist detail along, then sew
neatly short ends. Turn waist inner details under and sew to joining seams.
Topstitch the waist along the edges. Sew the part of front middle seam that is
unsewn, then sew back middle seam up to waist upper edge. Make a buttonhole into
waist right end.
7.
Sew side and seat seam.
8.
Sew the hem under.