5007 LONG COAT WITH ONE-PIECE SLEEVES

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining; fusing; 5 buttons; raglan shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Turn-down collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

8. Flap – 4 pieces

9. Sacking – 4 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece (excluding neckline facing’s width)

2. Front part – 2 pieces (excluding front bands’ width)

3. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands. Collar, back neckline facing, flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch relieves into back par and back sleeves. Topstitch on right side along back seam.

2. Slash front seam allowances diagonally in corners, then process lining sacking to front pocket’s entrances. Stitch two flaps together. Fold the flap upward and tack it to front sleeve’s lower part. Stitch the sacking and the flap and press them downwards, press joining seam’s allowances upwards. Stitch front part to front sleeve and stitch sackings with the same seam. Topstitch front seams on right side. Tack sacking’s side edges to front parts.

3. Stitch shoulder seams and sleeves’ upper seams.

4. Stitch inner collar into front/back neckline. Stitch shoulder seams of front bands and back neckline facing. Stitch outer collar into front bands’/facing’s neckline.

5. Pin front bands to front parts right sides together, pin inner collar to outer one along edges. Stitch the coat neatly along front edgings and the collar. Press the seam joining inner collar and the seam of back neckline facing apart and stitch them together.

6. Stitch side seams and sleeves’ lower seams. Sew coat’s hem under. Sew front bands to coat hem allowance.

7. Sew sleeves’ hems under.

8. Sew shoulder pads.

9. Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Sew lining’s hem under.

10. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on left one.