5062 WOOL BLAZER

YOU NEED: wool/fabric suitable for coats; lining; fusing; 2 large buttons; 6 small buttons.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Side part – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Collar – 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Front band – 2 pieces

8. Flap – 4 pieces

9. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

Fusing:

1. Front band – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 1 piece

4. Flap – 2 pieces

5. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

Lining:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Side part – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Sacking – 4 pieces

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of side pocket entrance, front/side part’s armholes.

2. Stitch front upper darts, stitch relieves seams.

3. Cut slit pockets with two facings and flaps into front part: lay facings right sides together and topstitch them along joining lines. Cut front part between stitches (stop before ends), diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press seam allowances apart. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat frame. Topstitch facing on wrong side along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch on facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Lay one soft and one reinforced flaps right sides together and overstitch neatly along outer sides. Turn the flap right sides out, press edges. Set the flap into the pocket on right side, pin the flap under upper facing and topstitch flap on the facing on wrong side. Stitch lining sacking to lower facing, stitch fabric sacking to upper facing. Adjust sackings to make their equal, then stitch.

4. Stitch middle back seam, stitch back shoulder darts. Stitch back relieve/shoulder seams. Stitch sleeve seams.

5. Sew sleeve hems into wrong side, then stitch into armholes. Sew pieces of warmer as well as shoulder pads.

6. Lining: press free-fit pleat, stitch darts/relieve seams/sleeve seams leaving a segment into a seam unstitched to turn the garment right side out. Stitch front bands to lining front parts. Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves in.

7. Stitch inner collar into neckline up to the mark. Stitch outer collar to front bands and lining: slash front part/front bands’ allowances into corner up to the seam. Press seam allowances apart. Lay outer collar with front bands on the jacket right sides together. Stitch front edgings, lapels and the collar up to the mark. Stitch front bands’/lining’s lower edges to jacket hem.

Turn the jacket right side out. Wrong side: stitch allowances of seam joining the collar between neckline together.

8. Stitch the lining of armholes’ upper segment to shoulder pads. Sew seam’s open segment into the lining. Fold lining sleeve hems under and sew.

9. Make one buttonhole into both front edgings. Sew buttons. When sewing the button on right edging, fold a flap button on wrong side.