5067 TROUSERS WITH WIDE LAPELS

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

YOU NEED: wool crepe of 150 cm width (to define fabric’s length, lay paper patterns along fabric’s width and estimate necessary length); 1 zipper of 19 cm length; 1 button.

ALL THE DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Button catch – 1 piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Waistband – 1 piece

Fusing: waistband’s half-width.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband’s half-width

2. Stitch back darts.

3. Stitch middle front seam below slit mark. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch the zipper in: press closure one-piece facing into wrong side as follows: press right edge along front middle line, press left edge stopping 1 cm before front middle line (=closure allowance). Pin folded sidewise zipper on closure left edge, lay the button catch (folded along the center, right side out) on zipper coinciding edges, then stitch all lays together. Process the valance and make fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Pin slit’s edges together coinciding front middle lines. Stitch zipper’s free band to closure right facing; do not catch fabric of trousers’ front part. Neaten allowances and make zig zag fixing stitch on wrong side along valances’ lower edges. Topstitch right front part along closure catching the facing.

4. Stitch leg inside seams and side seams.

5. Fold the waistband along the center, wrong side out, and overstitch ends. Turn the details right side out and press it. Lay the waistband, driven downwards, with its reinforced part on right side of trousers’ waistline edge, then stitch. Press open edge under and stitch to trousers; continue topstitching along waistband’s perimeter.

6. Press hems into wrong side, fold edges under and stitch edges to edges.

7. Fold cuffs along marking and sew it to side/leg inside seams.

8. Make a buttonhole into waistband’s right end; sew a button on the left one.