5069
DOUBLE-BREAST COAT WITH HOOD
YOU
NEED: fabric
suitable for coats of 150 cm, lining, fusing, shoulder pads, 6
buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Back part – 2 pieces
2.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
3.
Front band – 2 pieces
4.
Pocket
– 2 pieces
5.
Front part – 2 pieces
6.
Collar
– 2 pieces
7.
Flap
– 4 pieces
8.
Waistband
– 1 piece
9.
Sleeve lower half-belt – 4 pieces
10.
Sleeve upper half-belt – 4 pieces
11.
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
12.
Back part – 2 pieces
13.
Front part – 2 pieces
14.
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, inner
collar and flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to hem
allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Lay flap details right sides together, stitch along outer edges, turn them right
side out, press, then topstitch at 5 mm distance.
2.
Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, fold the edge under and stitch along
edge.
3.
Press patch pocket’s outer edges into wrong side and topstitch the pocket o the
garment.
4.
Lay driven upwards flap on coat’s right side and stitch it. Fold the flap
downwards, press it and topstitch.
5.
Stitch middle back seam to the vent, press seam allowances towards left back
part, topstitch left back part along the seam.
6.
Stitch side/shoulder seams.
7.
Fold sleeve half-belts along the center and process them neatly (let diagonal
ends open) and topstitch. Lay half-belts on sleeves and tack them between
transverse marks, with half-belts’ open edges on sleeve hem
allowances.
8.
Sew sleeve seams. Press seam allowance apart.
9.
Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing
and front bands, stitch outer collar into facing’s neckline and front band;
press allowances apart, slash at rounding.
10.
Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the coat, right sides together, then
overstitch edgings and collar; turn all right side out and press; sew outer
collar’s edge on neckline. On right side of coat: turn edging and collar right
side out and tack.
11.
At hem, lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew.
Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar t 1.0 cm
distance.
12.
Stitch sleeves in. topstitch the coat close to sleeve joining seams. Sew
shoulder pads.
13.
Press left edge of vent into wrong side, sew it to hem allowance. Press vent’s
right one-piece allowance into wrong side and sew to hem allowance. Pin the vent
along coinciding lines. Sew the hem. Topstitch vent’s top diagonally at left
back panel catching vent allowance.
14.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, inner edges of
front bands and back neckline facing. Pin carefully the lining neat the vent.
Cut the lining at vent’s part; do not forget about allowances. Fold lining edges
under and sew to vent’s edges. Sew the lining under.
15.
Fold the waistband along the center, wrong side out and stitch neatly along one
long/one short edges, turn the details right side out and press benings. Fold
open edge into wrong side and make a stitch along waistband’s perimeter at 0.5
mm.
16.
Make 2 buttonholes into right front part. Make a buttonhole for under-button
into left front part. Fix sleeve half-belts with buttons. Sew buttons
corresponding to buttonholes.