5074
SHORT COAT
ATTENTION!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
YOU
NEED:
fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 5
buttons of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 15 mm diameter; shoulder
pads.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Flap – 2 pieces
2.
Center
back
part
– 2 pieces
3.
Side
back
part
– 2 pieces
4.
Side
front
part
– 2 pieces
5.
Back
neckline
facing
– 1 piece
6.
Pocket facing – 4 pieces
7.
Collar – 2 pieces
8.
Center front part – 2 pieces
9.
Front band – 2 pieces
10.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
cut front parts excluding front bands’ widths. Cut lower sleeves with seam
allowance only. Cut back part excluding the width of back neckline
facing.
12.
Upper sacking – 2 pieces
13.
Lower sacking – 2 pieces
14.
Flap – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, inner
collar and flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to back hem
allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Stitch middle back seam down to the vent. Press vent one-piece facing (left
edge) into wrong side along bending line, then sew to hem allowance; topstitch
left detail along seam. At vent’s right edge, press one-piece facing into wrong
side, sew to hem allowance. Pin the vent along coinciding lines.
2.
Stitch relieve seams into front/back parts, press allowances
apart.
3.
Cut
slit pockets with two facings and flaps into front part: stitch neatly flaps
along side/lower edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width
on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on
front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch
(lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking).
Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through
facing! Press slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings to wrong side
through slit to make a neat frame, than tack (facing bendings meet at centers of
pocket entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit
ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends
and lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’
open edges between facings and stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch
sackings on wrong side to allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams
joining lower facings. Cut sackings, adjust them, then stitch
together.
4.
Stitch shoulder/side seams.
5.
Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing
and front bands; stitch outer collar into facing of neckline and front bands;
press allowances apart and slash in rounded segments.
6.
Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together),
overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press; sew outer
collar’s edge on neckline. On right side: turn edging and collar right side out,
tack, then press.
7.
At lower edge: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and
sew. Fold front bands into wrong side.
8.
Apply the fusing to sleeve hem. Stitch upper sleeves and elbow segments; press
allowances apart and turn sleeves right side out. Press sleeve hems’ allowances
into wrong side.
9.
Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap
coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the
garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.
10.
Sew shoulder pads.
11.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’
inner edges and back neckline facing. Pin the lining near vent carefully. Cut
the lining round the vent; be careful with allowances! Fold lining edges into
wrong side and sew to vent edges. Sew
the
lining
under.
12.
Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left one.