5276 WARM JACKET FOR WOMEN

YOU NEED: whipcord, lining, warmer, fusing, 1 separable zipper (depending on front part’s length), 2 zippers (depending on pocket’s length).

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3.5 cm for pieces of upper part.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Center back part – 1 piece

3. Side front part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Inner collar – 1 piece

8. Front band – 2 pieces

9. Large sacking – 2 pieces

10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

11. Placket for zipper – 1 piece

Lining:

12. Front part – 2 pieces

13. Back part – 1 piece

14. Sleeve – 2 pieces

15. Small sacking – 2 pieces

Warmer:

Topstitch the warmer to wrong side of back/front parts, sleeves, placket and outer/inner collars according to contour.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Quilt side front/side back part according to marked lines.

2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay the reinforcement stripe under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt’s height. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper to front part on right side, 0.1 cm from pocket entrance. Stitch small sacking to zipper’s lower braid and fold it downwards. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Sacking edges must enter the seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.

4. Stitch side parts to back/front parts. Stitch shoulder/side edges. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Stitch around the placket for zipper and topstitch it. Overstitch the collar, turn it right side out and topstitch along collar fall. Stitch the collar into neckline.

5. Stitch front band to front part’s lining making a pleat into lining. Stitch lining details together, leave technological hole into a sleeve’s seam.

6. Topstitch zipper’s left part on the placket. Lay zipper’s part on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging). Overstitch edgings inserting the zipper into placket (placket is on left front part). Turn the garment right side out.

7. Stitch the lining to garment/sleeve hems. Sew technological hole.

8. Topstitch jacket’s edging ad hem.

9. Press ready jacket.