COAT WITH LEATHER DETAILS
MATERIAL: wool or semi-wool;
artificial leather.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 3 buttons; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper center back part – 2 details
2. Lower center back part – 2 details
3. Upper
side back part – 2 details
4. Lower
side back part – 2 details
5. Inner
collar – 1 detail
6. Outer
collar – 1 detail
7. Upper side front part – 2 details
8. Lower side front part – 2 details
9. Upper center front part – 2 details
10. Lower center front part – 2 details
11. Slit
pocket detail – 2 details
12. Front band
– 2 details
13. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
14. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
7. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
Clue
interfacing: front band, upper center front part, lower center front part, upper center back part wit armhole piece, vent
piece, side back armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slit pocket detail; hem allowance: side back part, back
part, lower sleeve, lower side front part, upper sleeve.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Strengthen the upper center front part, lower center front part, upper center
back part wit armhole piece, vent piece, side back armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slit pocket
detail; hem allowance: side back part, back part, lower sleeve, lower side
front part, upper sleeve with vent piece with clue interfacing.
2.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Fold
the slit pocket detail along the centre, wrong side inside, then press. Sew the
slit pocket detail to upper edge of front lower part (between marks).
4. Sew the
bag to right side of upper side front part and lower side front part according to
notches, right sides together. Turn the seam over and topstitch on the bag.
Topstitch pocket detail sides along both edges on the upper front part. Sew
bags together.
5. Sew upper center front part to lower center front
part. Press seams apart.
6. Pin the front band and front part
right sides together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the
front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front
bands edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower
seams corners. Overstitch the front band work seam allowance: at zipper area –
into the front band, on lapels area – into the front part edge, on 0,2 cm width
from the seam. Turn the edges into right sides, fit seams.
7. Tack
relief edges between the hem and the waistline. Sew front part relieves and
press them apart.
8. Sew upper side back part to lower side back part, then sew upper center back part to lower center back part.
Press joining seams apart.
9. Sew back part relieves. Oversew
relieves edges between the hem and the waistline, then press apart.
10. Sew back part edge. Press on 1 cm the lower vent
edge. Press back center seam and the vent toward back part center. Topstitch
back center seam on vent top according to diagonal marking, catching the vent
allowance.
11. Oversew the side seams
between the hem and the waistline. Sew shoulder and side seams, then pres
them apart.
12. Sew
elbow seam and vent corners into lower and upper sleeves. Press the elbow seam
apart, make a notch and press the vent.
13. Sew sleeve front
seam and press it apart. Press sleeve hem.
14. Sew
the inner collar to the neckline.
15. Sew the sleeves
into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
16. Sew lining
details seams, then sew sleeves into armholes. Tack
lining seams between the hem and the waistline, then press. Sew the lining to
front band inner edges and outer collar. Press collar joining seam allowance
and sew it near seams.
17. Turn under lining
sleeves and sew them to sleeve hem; turn the extra lining under and press it.
Turn the coat right side out. Pin side seams of lining with fabric ones, then
cut preciously along edge vent, 1 cm from the center seam. On 1 cm below the
vent top, make diagonal slits of 1 cm in both sides. Turn the slits into and
pin with vent edges. Between fabric and lining, pull pinned edges outside by
one. Sew edges and turn the hem allowance under. Fit vent edges. Turn vent top
lining corner and sew it to vent allowance. Turn the hem allowance under so
that lining is 1 cm shorter than the fabric coat.
18. Work the buttonholes into right front part, sew
buttons to left one. Mark and sew buttons to sleeve vents.
19. Tack the hem. Then Press the hem
allowance into wrong side and sew by hand.