DOUBLE BREAST COAT

MATERIAL: velour, soft coat fabric.

YOU NEED: clue interfacing, 16 buttons, lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 details

2. Side back part – 2 details

3. Inner collar – 1 detail

4. Outer collar – 1 detail

5. Side front part – 2 details

6. Center front part – 2 details

7. Front band – 2 details

8. Slip pocket detail – 4 details

9. Belt – 2 details

10. Upper sleeve – 2 details

11. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 detail

2. Side back part - 2 details

3. Side front part – 2 details

4. Center front part – 2 details

5. Bag –4 details

6. Upper sleeve – 2 details

7. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Clue interfacing: front band, center front part, upper center back part, side front part armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slip pocket detail, vent back part piece; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve, side front part.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Strengthen the front band, center front part, upper center back part, side front part armhole, sleeve vent, inner collar, slip pocket detail, vent back part piece; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve, side front part with clue interfacing.

2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.

3. Pin the front band and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the edge. Overstitch on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front bands edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Overstitch the front band work seam allowance: at zipper area – into the front band, on lapels area – into the front part edge, on 0,2 cm width from the seam. Turn the edges into right sides, fit seams.

4. Fold upper and lower slip pocket detail right sides together, then overstitch along the outer contour. Cut rounded corners allowance, then turn right side out. Press the fitting the edging. Sew bags to the slip pocket detail.

5. Fold the bag with side front part right side. Fold the bag with sewn slip pocket detail with central front part, according to notches, right side down. Sew the bag to pocket entrance allowance. Fold out side front part seam and topstitch it on the bag.

6. Sew front reliefs and the bag. Make a notch on pocket entrance allowance (at both ends), then press reliefs allowances apart, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the slit pocket detail along both edges on the side front part.

7. Sew back relieves downwards the vent. Press lower vent’s edge on 1 cm. Press back relieve and the vent towards the back center seam. Topstitch back relieve near vent upper end along the diagonal marking catching the vent allowance.

8. Sew should and side seams, then press apart.

9. Sew inner collar to neckline, then sew outer collar to front bands.

10. Sew sleeve elbow figure seam, then press.

11. Sew sleeve front seam, then press. Press sleeve hem.

12. Sew sleeve into armholes according to notches.

13. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads..

14. Sew lining details seams, with the hole in sleeve front right seam. Sew lining and fabric coat right sides together, to inner edges of front bands and outer collar. Press collar joining seams apart and fix them near seams. Fold under lining sleeves and sew them to sleeve hem; turn the extra lining under and press it. Turn the coat right side out. Pin side seams of lining with fabric ones, then cut preciously along edge vent, 1 cm from the center seam. On 1 cm below the vent top, make diagonal slits of 1 cm in both sides. Turn the slits into and pin with vent edges. Between fabric and lining, pull pinned edges outside by one. Sew edges and turn the hem allowance under. Fit vent edges. Turn vent top lining corner and sew it to vent allowance.

15. Sew lining to fabric coat hem. Turn the coat right side out through holes of the sleeves. Sew holes in the sleeves.

16. Fold the belt right sides together, then overstitch along outer contour, with the hole in the center of upper seam. Turn the seam right side out, then sew center hole.

17. Work the buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons to left one.

18. Sew buttons to the back part. Fit the belt.