5329 TAIL-COAT FOR WOMEN

YOU WILL NEED: wool or semi-wool; sateen or velvet; iron-on interfacing;

12 buttons; smaller buttons (for sleeve vents); lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm. for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Back neck facing – 1 piece

5. Tail – 2 pieces

6. Under collar – 1 piece

7. Top collar – 1 piece

8. Centre front – 2 pieces

9. Front facing – 2 pieces

10. Flap – 4 pieces

11. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front – 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Tail – 2 pieces

Interfacing: front facing, back facing, reinforce piece, centre front, side front armholes, side back armholes, vent segment, under collar, hem allowances.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing, back facing, centre front, reinforce piece, side front armholes, side back armholes, vent segment, under collar, hem allowances.

2. Make up and shape the collar.

3. Stitch the tail to the side back. Press the joining seam open.

4. Stitch the front/back curved edges; press the seams open.

5. Make up and shape the flaps.

6. Mark the pocket entrance on the front. Check the pocket position.

With right side out, press the pocket facings in half lengthways. Mark auxiliary line on the facings. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket

flaps. Mark the flap/facing auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket entrance. Topstitch the facing to the side front. Cut the pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits 1-1.5 cm before the entrance ends. Turn the facings

to the wrong side. Fix the pocket ends with double reverse stitch along the corner base. Stitch the reinforce to the flap; stitch it to the upper pocket facing. Close the pocket entrance stitching through the lower facing seam.

7. Overstitch the front centre/lower edges with the front facing up

to the notches showing the collar position. Trim the seam allowances

on the corners. Understitch the seam allowances as following: at the closure segment – to the front facing, at the lapel segments – to the

front piece stitching 0,2 cm in. Turn the front openings right side out.

8. Stitch the back center edges. Press lower vent edge under for 1 cm.

Press the back center seam. Press the vent towards the back center.

Topstitch according to the mark on the vent upper end diagonally

(through the all thickness).

9. Stitch and press open the side/shoulder seams.

10. Join the front and back facing across the shoulder seams.

Press them open.

11. Stitch the sleeve elbow seams and the vent ends. Press the elbow

seams open, slash and press the vents.

12. Stitch the sleeve front seams and press them open. Press the sleeve

hems the wrong side.

13. Stitch the sleeves to the armholes according to the notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads to the garment.

14. Stitch the under collar to the neckline; stitch the top collar

to the front/neck facings.

15. Stitch lining pieces together leaving a slit in front seam of

the right sleeve. Press the underlining. Stitch the underlining to the front/back facing raw edges. Press the seam allowances of the seams

joining the collar open and fix them together close to the seams.

16. Overstitch the front hem with the underlining.

17. Stitch the lining sleeve hems to the garment sleeve hems. Turn the garment right side out. Pin the lining tail edges to the garment tail

edges and cut the lining neatly along the vent driving 1 cm towards the central seam. Stop 1 cm before the vent top and make diagonal slits towards both directions. Fold the new slits under and pin them to the vent edges. Pull the pinned edges right side out one by one, then stitch. Correct the vent edges. Fold the lining corners on the vent upper edge and sew it to the vent allowance. Overstitch unstitched segment of the tail side edge with the lining.

18. Turn the garment right side out through the sleeve slit. Press the tails side seams. Stitch the sleeve slit.

19. Make buttonholes in the right front piece, apply the buttons to the left front piece. Sew buttons to the sleeve vent.