5348 TROUSERS WITH LARGE POCKETS

YOU WILL NEED: denim, iron-on interfacing; 1 zipper; 5 buttons.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front patch pocket – 2 pieces

2. Carrier – 1 piece

3. Patch pocket – 2 pieces

4. Patch pocket flap – 4 pieces

5. Front – 2 pieces

6. Zip guard – 1 piece

7. Back – 2 pieces

8. Yoke – 2 pieces

9. Waistband – 1 piece

Interfacing: waistband, zip guard, pocket flap, pocket entrance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, zip guard, pocket flap, pocket entrance.

2. Neaten the front patch pocket edges. Press the seam allowances under according to the pattern. Topstitch the pocket top edges 0.5 cm below the foldline.

3. Mark the front pocket position; topstitch the pockets 0.2 cm in.

4. Make up and shape the flaps. Topstitch the flaps outer contour 0.5 cm in. Neaten the flap upper edges.

5. Stitch the back yokes to the back pieces. Neaten the joining seams and press them to the yokes. Topstitch the seam allowances 0.5 cm above the seams.

6. Stitch and neaten the side seams. Press the side seams backwards.

7. Neaten the patch pocket edges and press the seam allowances under according to the pattern. Topstitch the entrance. Mark the pocket position on the front/back pieces and topstitch the pocket 0.2 cm in around the couture, topstitch the flaps according to the marking. Unfold the flaps downwards and topstitch them 0.5 cm below the seams.

8. Neaten the centre/inside leg edges and the hems. Stitch the inside leg seams twice; neaten them. Press these seams backwards. Stitch the crotch seam up to the zipper closure notch twice as well.

9. Press closure fly extensions to the wrong side. Stitch zip tape edges to the slit left edge and to the right fly extension. Fold the zip guard pieces right sides together and overstitch along two sides. Turn it inside out. Neaten the long edge. Topstitch the left fly extension to the guard. Edgestitch the right edge of the slit catching the extension.

10. Fold the carrier in half lengthways with wrong side out and stitch the long edges. Turn the carrier right side out and press it.

11. Press the waistband along the center right side out and neaten one long edge. Cut the carriers; topstitch them to the waistband matching the marks.

12. Stitch the waistband to the garment top edge. Overstitch the waistband ends, trim the allowances on the corner and turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the neatened edge on the joining seam and press the waistband.

13. Press the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch them in place.

14. Make a buttonhole in the waistband right edge. Sew the button on the left edge. Make buttonholes in the flaps; sew buttons on the patch pocket according to the flap buttonholes.