FABRIC: denim with lycra.
YOU NEED AS WELL: iron-on interfacing,
open-ended zipper, 2 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.3
cm for hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
MATCHING
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Pocket – 2 pieces
2. Pocket facing – 2 pieces
3. Back – 1 piece
4. Front – 2 pieces
5. Front yoke – 2 pieces
6. Front facing– 2 pieces
7. Collar – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Half-belt – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Iron the interfacing to the front/pocket facings, upper collar.
2. Stitch
the bust darts. Stitch the back waist darts. Press the bust darts downwards.
Press the waist darts towards the back centre.
3. Stitch the yoke to
the front. Neaten the seam and press it towards the yoke, topstitch it to the
yoke 0.5cm above the seamline. Stitch the zipper to the front centre edges.
4. Mark the pocket
position on the front piece. Overstitch the top edge of the pocket with the
pocket facing, fold the facing to the right side of the pocket and press it.
Fold the lower edge of the facing 1cm under and topstitch 0.5cm above this
edge. Neaten the pocket side/lower edges. Press the pocket seam allowances to
the wrong side according to the pattern. Place the pocket to the marks and
topstitch 0.5cm in from the edges.
5. Neaten the outer
edges of the front facings. Overstitch the front centre edges with the facings.
6. Fold the front
facings to the wrong side of the garment and fold the raw edges under. Tack the
edges, press them and topstitch to the garment.
7. Edgestitch the
zipper around.
8. Stitch and neaten
the shoulder seams, press them backwards.
9. Stitch and neaten
the side seams. Press them backwards.
10. Make up the
collar.
11. Stitch the under
collar to the neckline. Fold the lower edge of the top collar and topstitch it
to the seamline of the under collar. Edgestitch the collar. Fix the front facing
to the shoulder seams.
12. Fold the
half-belt in half lengthways inside out and stitch the upper corner and the
side edges of the belt leaving the lower edge open. Turn the half-belt inside
out and press it flat.
13. Mark the
half-belts position on the lower edge of the sleeve and stitch the half-belt to
this place 0.5cm from the foldings. Neaten the lower sleeve edges. Fold the seam
allowances to the wrong sides; press them and topstitch to the sleeves.
14. Stitch and neaten the sleeve side seams. Press them backwards.
15. Easystitch the
sleeve top edges. Stitch the sleeves to the short.
16. Neaten the hem.
Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch to the garment.
17. Make buttonholes
in the half-belts. Sew the buttons on.