YOU NEED: natural or mixed fabric, zipper of 25 cm
length, lining, elastic braid.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for garment
hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center upper front part – 1 piece
2. Side upper front part – 2 pieces
3. Center lower front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle lower font part – 2 pieces
5. Side lower front part – 2 pieces
6. Gusset – 12 pieces
7. Side lower back part – 2 pieces
8. Center lower back part – 2 pieces
9. Side upper back part – 2 pieces
10. Center upper back part – 2 pieces
11. Middle lower back part – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
13. Center back part – 2 pieces
14. Side back part – 2 pieces
15. Center upper front part – 1 piece
16. Center lower front part – 1 piece
17. Side front part – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front/back armholes’ facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front/back armholes’ facing.
2. Stitch
bust darts and press them towards the center.
3. Stitch
bust darts into upper front part lining. Press darts towards the center. Stitch
front lining to back lining. Neaten joining seams and press them backward.
Neaten lining hem, press it into wrong side and topstitch. Neaten lining middle
edge, stitch up to closure notch and press it apart.
4. Stitch
the gusset to center lower front part, neaten joining seam 4 cm above the
notch. Stitch middle seam of center lower front part to gusset side edge and
neaten it. Press middle seam pressing gusset’s side edge.
5. Stitch
the gusset to middle lower front part; neaten joining seam 4 cm above the
notch. Stitch middle lower front part (with gusset) to center lower front part.
Neaten joining seam and press it pressing gusset side edge.
6. Stitch
center upper front part to center lower part; neaten joining seam and press it
downwards. Stitch side upper front part to side lower part. Neaten the seams
joining side front parts and press it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side
front part, neaten joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch relieve edges of
front part and gusset side edge, neaten relieve seams and press them pressing
gusset side edges.
7. Stitch
the gusset to center lower back part, neaten joining seam 4 cm above the notch.
Stitch middle lower back part to center lower back part. Neaten joining seam
and press it pressing gusset side edges.
8. Stitch
center upper back part to center lower back part, neaten joining seam and press
it downwards. Stitch the gusset to side back part, neaten joining seam 4 cm
above the notch. Stitch the gusset to middle back part to gusset side edge,
neaten relieve seams and press them pressing gusset side edges.
9. Stitch
the gusset to side front part, neaten joining seam 4 cm above the notch. Stitch
dress/gusset side seams. Neaten side seams of gusset. Press side seams pressing
gusset side edges.
10. Stitch
the gusset to right center back part. Neaten right middle back edge and gusset
side edge. Neaten left middle back edge and gusset side edge. Stitch middle
back seam and gusset’s left side edge up to closure notch. Press middle back
seam apart, press gusset side edges and closure slits. Stitch the zipper into
middle back seam.
11. Stitch
dress shoulder edges and press them apart.
12. Lay
the lining on the garment right sides together, then
overstitch neckline edge. Topstitch seam allowances on front/back lining at 0.2
cm from overstitching seam. Adjust lining middle edge and dress middle edge and
fix them together near the zipper.
13. Make the stitch with easy loops along shoulder cap between notches,
at 0.5 cm from edge. Pull sleeve edge as wished. Neaten sleeve hems, fold
them under and topstitch at 1.2 cm distance. Cut elastic braid according to
size and pull pieces into sleeve lower allowance. Stitch sleeve edge and neaten
it. Press joining seam.
14. Stitch
sleeves into armholes according to notches.
15. Neaten
dress he, fold it under and topstitch at 1 cm from lowr
edge.