YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; 11 eyelets and
hooks; lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Side back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Inner collar – 1 piece
5. Outer collar – 1 piece
6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve top – 2 pieces
9. Center back part – 2 pieces
10. Center
front part – 2 pieces
11. Back
neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Center back part – 2 pieces
6. Center front part – 2 pieces
Fusing:
front band, back neckline facing, outer
collar, center front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, outer collar, center front part,
front/back armhole edges.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards back center. Stitch front darts and slash
depths. Press front darts apart.
3. Lay
outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Press the collar.
4. Sew
eyelets on right front edging, sew hooks on left one. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging. (Overstitch front part upward the notch determining
end of stitching the collar in). Stitch lower edges of front bands to front
part along marked hem line. Cut seams of upper/lower corners of edging.
Topstitch edging’s overstitching allowance on front band at closure and at
front edging at lapels. (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right
side out.
5. Stitch front/back
relieves and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart.
Stitch shoulder/side edges and press them apart.
6. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into edges of
back neckline facing/front band.
7. Make
weak stitches at 0.5 cm from sleeves’ upper/lower edges, then make gathering.
8. Stitch
sleeve tops to upper sleeves. Stitch elbow seams and press them apart. Press
sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve front seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch sleeve into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
10. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve and waistband hole into
left side seam.
11. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
12.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.