YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; fusing; lining;
shoulders. 3 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Pocket – 4 pieces
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Lapel – 2 pieces
6. Side front part – 2 pieces
7. Middle front part – 2 pieces
8. Center front part – 2 pieces
9. Front band – 2 pieces
10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve’s hem facing
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Middle front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing, collar, lapel, center front part, sleeve’s hem
facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing, collar, lapel, center front part,
sleeve’s hem facing.
2. Stitch
back darts and press them towards the center.
3. Stitch
the lapel to the collar, press joining seam apart.
4. Stitch
back middle seam and press it apart. Stitch front/back relieves and press them
apart.
5. Mark
pocket place. Lay pocket details right sides together and stitch pocket’s upper
edges. Stitch pockets’ edges along contour leaving 5-cm hole into side seam.
Cut allowances of rounded corners and turn them right side out. Press the
pocket. Topstitch the pocket in accordance with marking.
6. Stitch
side/shoulder edges. Press side/shoulder seams apart.
7. Stitch
inner collar with the lapel into front/band necklines. Press joining seam apart.
8. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Stitch inner collar with the lapel into back neckline/front band.
9. Pin front band on front part right sides together and
overstitch along edging, lapels and collar fall. (Overstitch front part
upward.) Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part along marked hem line.
Cut seams of lower corners of edging. Topstitch edging’s overstitching
allowance on front band at closure (stop stitching 3 cm before neckline and
lower corner). (Topstitch at 0.2 cm from seam.) Turn edgings right side out.
10. Stitch
elbow seams leaving slits. Press elbow seams apart, press slits. Press sleeve
hems into wrong side. Stitch sleeve front seams and press them apart.
Overstitch sleeves’ hems and slits. Press sleeve hems and slits.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
12. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
13. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing. Press allowances
of seam joining the collar apart and fix them close to seams.
14.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.
15. Make
buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.