YOU NEED: wool/semi-wool; fusing; separating zipper;
lining; shoulder pads.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for garment/sleeve hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Facing:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: front
band, back neckline facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of front band, back neckline facing.
2. Stitch
front dart, press bust dart. Stitch front relieves and press them apart.
3. Stitch
middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch back relieves and press them apart.
4. Lay
front parts right sides together and adjust edges measuring bendings’ lengths.
Stitch the zipper to edging. At closure, press edging into wrong side.
5. Pit front part and front band right sides together,
then overstitch along edging and front neckline segment of 2-3 length.
(Overstitch front part upward.) Stitch lower edges of front bands to front part
along marked hem line. Cut seams of lower corners of edging. Turn edgings right
side out. Make decorative stitch along edging at 0.5 cm distance.
6. Stitch side/shoulder edges and press them right
sides together.
7. Stitch
shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front band, then press seams apart.
Overstitch front/back neckline. Turn the facing right side out, them press.
8. Stitch
elbow seams and press it apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side. Stitch
sleeve front seams and press them apart.
9. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
Sew shoulder pads.
10. Stitch lining details together and stitch sleeve
in, leaving a hole into right front seam of a sleeve.
11. Stitch
the lining to inner edges of front bands/back neckline facing.
12.
Stitch the lining to jacket/sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out trough
sleeve hole. Stitch hole’s edges together.