YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric;
concealed zip; fusing; a button.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 3 cm for upper front part’s middle
edge, 1 cm for other seams.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 1 piece
2. Lower back part – 1 piece
3. Back yoke – 2 pieces
4. Upper front part – 2 pieces
5. Lower front part – 1 piece
6. Front yoke – 2 pieces
7. Collar – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of one front/back yoke, outer collar and middle front seam allowance.
2. Neaten middle front edge and press it by 3 cm.
3. Make loose stitch at 0.5
cm from edge along upper front/back parts’ lower/upper edges. Make pleats.
4. Lay front yokes right
sides together. Insert upper front part so that front part laid on doubled yoke
right sides together (coincide notches!). Stitch details with one seam. Neaten
the seam, turn it right side out, then press. Do the same for back yoke and
back part.
5. Lay front yoke’/lower
front part’s lower edges together. Stitch together, neaten the seam and press
it upward. Make decorative topstitching at 1 mm from the seam. Do the same for
the yoke and lower back part.
6. Stitch
side seams leaving a segment into left seam unstitched (zipper place). Neaten
seams and press them apart, pressing closure slits. Stitch the zipper in.
7. Neaten armholes, fold
them under by 0.5 cm, then topstitch. Press seams.
8. Cut a fabric stripe of 3 cm width for the loop. Fold the stripe along the center and topstitch at 0.5 cm from bend overstitching one end. Turn the stripe right side out and press it. Cut the loop of necessary length and tack it to collar’s right edge.
9. Lay collars together. Overstitch inner collar with
outer one, cut allowances and turn the collar right side out. Press the detail,
press lower edges.
10. Stitch the collar to
front/back parts coinciding details according to notches.
11. Neaten garment’s hem,
fold it under and topstitch at 0.5 cm from lower edge.
12. Sew
the button to collar’s left edge.