YOU NEED: chiffon, sheer
fabrics; concealed zip; lining (natural/mixed fabric).
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 0.5 cm for hem, 1 cm for all seams.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Upper back yoke – 1 piece
5. Lower back yoke – 1 piece
6. Upper front part – 1 piece
7. Center front part – 1 piece
8. Side front part – 2 pieces
9. Upper front yoke – 1 piece
10. Lower front yoke – 1 piece
11. Front skirt – 1 piece
12. Back skirt – 1 piece
13. Side skirt – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Upper back part – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2 pieces
4. Upper back yoke – 1 piece
5. Lower back part – 1 piece
6. Upper front part – 1 piece
7. Center front part – 1 piece
8. Side front part – 2 pieces
9. Upper front yoke – 1 piece
10. Lower front part – 1 piece
11. Front skirt – 1 piece
12. Back skirt – 1 piece
13. Side skirt – 1 piece
INSTRUCTIONS:
Our advice: you can decorate
horizontal seams with ruffs. Measure all horizontal seams’ lengths, cut a strap
of 5 cm width; the strap is 2-3 times longer that seams lengths. Fold 3 edges
under and sew by hand, make gathering along raw edge. Insert the riffle between
details when stitching horizontal seams.
1. Stitch center front part
to side front part. Stitch center back part to side back part. Neaten seams and
press them toward the center. Stitch tight side seam, neaten it and press it
backwards.
2. Stitch
upper back/front parts along right side seam. Stitch upper back/front yokes
along right side seam. Stitch lower front/back yokes along right side seam.
Neaten seams and press them backwards.
3. Stitch
horizontal seams of these details inserting the ruffle between them. Neaten
seams and press them upwards.
4. Stitch
left side seam between the hem and lower yoke’s upper edge excluding closure
slit. Neaten the seam and press it apart pressing the slit. Stitch the zipper
in. Press the seam.
5. Stitch
skirts’ side seams together. Neaten seams and press them backwards. Fold
skirt’s front edge under and sew it. Stitch the skirt to the bodice inserting
the riffle.
6. Do the
same for lining details leaving closure slit into left seam.
7. Cut the strap. Fold the strap along the center wrong side out and
topstitch at 0.5 cm from bending. Turn the strap right side out and press it.
Sew the strap to front neckline.
8. Fit the
dress on, adjust strap’s length and sew back end to back part.
9. Lay the dress on
the lining right sides together. 5 mm before the zipper: fold the lining out
and pin it to dress’s upper edge. Fold closure allowances into right side and
pin them to upper edge (over the facing). Stitch upper edges together. Fold
closure allowances into wrong side. Fold the lining upwards and topstitch on
the seam allowance at 1-2 mm from the seam. Fold the lining into wrong side and
fix it to zipper braid. Press details.
10. Fold the hem into
wrong side and sew. Fold lining hem into wrong side and sew so that lining was
2 cm shorter than the dress.