YOU NEED: sheer natural/mixed fabric; elastic braid;
piping of 3 cm width.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Back facing – 2 pieces
5. Front facing – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Cuff – 2 pieces
8. Upper sleeve – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Make
loose stitch at 0.5 cm from front lower edge. Make gathering at bust line
between notches.
2. Press the piping along the center and overstitch middle front edge.
3. Stitch
back darts. Press darts toward the center.
4. Stitch
middle back seam, neaten it and press.
5. Stitch side/shoulder edges. Neaten seams and press
them backwards.
6. Fold
the collar right side out and make loose stitches along short edges. Make
gathering. Slash corners on front part close to the seam joining the collar.
Stitch the collar into the neckline. Cut the seam to 0.5 cm and neaten it.
Close the seam with the piping: fold the piping along the center and stitch it
to seam (wrong side) so that the piping was at collar’s side. Fold the piping
to front part closing the seam joining the collar.
7. Stitch
side plackets. Stitch outer placket to jacket’s lower edge coinciding the notch
into front placket and center front edge. Slash the seam close to stitch ends
and neaten it. Lay inner/outer plackets right sides together and overstitch
placket’s open edges; begin and finish stitching close to the seam joining the
placket to front part. Turn the placket right side out and press it. Press
inner placket’s inner edge and topstitch on joining seam.
8. Make
gathering along sleeve hem. Stitch upper sleeve to sleeve cap. At other 2 upper
sleeves: press the edge of joining to sleeve cap into wring side. Topstitch
upper sleeve on joining seam on wrong side. Press seams. Press the cuff along the center right side out. Turn
the cuff and stitch its side edge. Press side seam apart. Press the cuff along
the center. Neaten sleeve seam, stitch it and press apart. Stitch cuff’s outer
side to sleeve hem. Press the seam toward the cuff. Press cuff’s open edge.
Stitch elastic braid to improve cuff fitting. Topstitch cuff’s inner edge along
the seam joining the sleeve.
9. Stitch
sleeves into armholes according to notches. Neaten joining seams and press
them.