YOU NEED: wool;
fusing; separable zip (see the length on front part’s pattern).
IF
THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF
THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for hem allowance, 0 outer allowances of
armhole/neckline facings, 0 cm form front bands.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the
linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not
forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Center back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Half-bent – 2 pieces
8. Back armhole facing – 2 pieces
9. Front armhole facing – 2 pieces
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, front/back armhole facings.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline
facing, front/back armhole facings.
2. Fold half-bents along the center right sides together, then
overstitch along two edges. Turn details right side out and make decorative
stitches.
3. Stitch front relieves and neaten them. Press relieve allowances
towards the center.
4. Stitch back relieves inserting half-bents. Neaten seams and press
them towards back center.
5. Lay front parts right sides together and make edges equal measuring
front edgings’ length. Stitch the zipper to front edgings. At zipper segment:
press edgings into wrong side.
6. Neaten outer edges of back neckline facing/front bands.
7. Pin front band to front part right sides together
and overstitch along front edging. (Overstitching goes upwards on front part.)
Stitch front bands’ hems to center front part along hem allowance line. Cut
front edging lower corners’ seam. Turn front edgings right side out and press.
8. Stitch side/shoulder seams and
press them apart.
9. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing/front
bands and press them apart. Overstitch front/back neckline. Fold the facing
into wrong side, press seams. Topstitch allowances on the neckline at 0.2 cm
from the seam.
10. Stitch
side/shoulder seams of front/back armhole facing. Neaten armhole facing along
outer contour. Lay armhole facing on the garment right sides together, then
overstitch. Fold the facing into wrong side slashing armholes at curved
segments. Topstitch allowances on armhole facing at 0.2 cm from seams.
11. Fix
neckline facing at shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch. Fix armhole facing at
side/shoulder seams with 1 cm stitch.
12. Neaten waistcoat hem.
Fold hem allowances into wrong side and topstitch. Make decorative stitch along
the zipper at 0.5 cm from edge.