YOU NEED: sheer natural/mixed fabric;
concealed zip for middle seam.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 1 piece
3. Front draped part – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
Our
advice: you can use the fabric as the lining.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front waist/back
darts as well as into back lining. Press front darts toward front center, press
back darts toward back center.
2. Stitch front upper darts. Slash depths and neaten
them.
3. Turn in
at 0.5 cm width draped front part’s lower edge. Slash seam allowances at front
draped part’s upper edge’s notch. Turn in at 0.5 cm width slit’s segment
between notch’s upper edge and side seam. Press the seams. Make pleats into
draped part. Fix pleats’ ends with a stitch at 0.5 cm from side edge.
4. Neaten
middle back edge. Stitch middle back seam up to the closure notch. Press middle
back seam apart pressing closure slits, then stitch the zipper in.
5. Stitch
middle back seam into lining detail up to closure slit. Press middle seam apart
pressing closure slits.
6. Lay the fabric back part on the lining back part right sides together
and coincide necklines. Fold the lining out 5 mm before concealed zip’s edges
and pin the lining to neckline edge. Fold allowances into right side along the
zip, then pin allowances to neckline above the lining.
Overstitch back neckline with the lining. Fold closure allowance into wrong
side. Fold the lining upward and topstitch on seam allowance at 1-2 cm from the
seam. Fold the lining into wrong side and fix it to zipper braid. Overstitch
back armholes. Turn details right side out and press them.
7. Lay draped part’s right side on front part’s wrong side. Overstitch
armholes. Overstitch front neckline with draped detail separately along
right/left edges. Slash neckline’s lower corner, turn details right side out,
then press.
8. Turn
front part wrong side out. Insert back part’s shoulder edges into front
shoulder edge between the fabric and the lining. Stitch front/back shoulder
edges together. Neaten the seams, turn the details
right side out, them press. Process back part as one-layer
detail.
9. Stitch
side edges coinciding notches and making a wrap of draped detail. Neaten side
seams, press them backward.
10. Neaten
the hem, fold it into wrong side, press, then
topstitch.