You need: whipcord,
separating zip with upper and lower sliders, fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1,5
cm for the hem. 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Back part – 2
pieces
3. Hood – 2 pieces
4. Hood center – 1 piece
5. Off-set welt – 2
pieces
6. Large sacking – 2 pieces
7. Small sacking – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Hood – 2 pieces
2. Hood center – 1 piece
Fusing:
1. Off-set welt – 2
pieces
2. Front band – 2
pieces
Our advice: we
recommend use the fabric as the lining.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong sides of front bands and off-set welts.
2. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of pocket place. Press the welt along the center right side out.
Mark on it a line to define ready off-set welt’s width. Stitch small sacking to
welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt with sacking on front part right sides together
coinciding pocket marking and line on the welt. Stitch the off-set welt. Stitch
large sacking to pocket marking’s upper line. Cut pocket entrance between
markings, with diagonal notches at pocket marking corners. Turn pocket details
wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings edges fixing pocket
corners. Cut 2 fabric stripes of 2*15 cm for sacking holder. Sew one end to
sacking edge. Lay front part on smooth surface, make holder’s another end equal
to front edging. Sew holder’s end to front edging. Cut extra fabric of holder.
3. Stitch middle back
seam. Neaten the seam and press it into left side.
4. Stitch shoulder
edges together. Neaten seams and press them backwards.
5. Stitch upper
pieces and hood lining. Stitch the hood into the neckline.
6. Lay half of zipper
on front edging right sides together (with its teeth against front edging).
Stitch the zipper in.
7. Neaten front
band’s outer edge. Stitch front band to hood lining. Press the seam toward the
hood. Lay front band on front part right sides together, then overstitch front
edging as well as hood. Press the seam. Fix together seam allowances on hood
middle part (fabric and lining). Fold hood lining’s raw edge under and
topstitch into neckline seam.
8. Neaten the hem,
press, then topstitch.