You need: soft
fabric suitable for coats (you can use a companion fabric for frill and outer
collar): lining, fusing, 2 decorative buttons for outer fastening and 3 buttons
for hidden one, 1 hood and 1 eyelet for collar.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 2 cm
for frill hem, 1 cm for other seam.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Front yoke – 2
pieces
3. Back part – 1
piece
4. Back yoke – 1
piece
5. Back upper sleeve
– 2 pieces
6. Back lower sleeve
– 2 pieces
7. Front upper sleeve
– 2 pieces
8. Front lower sleeve
– 2 pieces
9. Collar – 2 pieces
10. Stand-up collar –
2 pieces
11. Front band – 2
pieces
12. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
13. Frill– 1 piece
(see size on back part pattern)
Lining:
1. Front part – 2
pieces
2. Back part – 2
pieces
3. Back sleeve – 2
pieces
4. Front sleeve – 2
pieces
5. Hidden fastening
lining – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Back neckline
facing - 1 piece
2. Front band – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Stand-up collar –
1 piece
5. Hidden fastening lining
– 1 piece
NB: Frill
size is given on back piece. You can put the frill together of several parts.
NB: Before
cutting the lining, please gather paper details of upper/back pieces together.
when cutting lining front/back pieces, do not take into account front
bands/back neckline facing widths correspondingly. Lining comes down to frill joining
line.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to
wring side of the collar, front bands, stand-up collar, back neckline facing, hidden
fastening lining.
2. Stitch front upper
darts. Press darts toward the center.
3. Press pleats into
yokes and upper sleeves as marked.
4. Stitch back yoke
to back part right sides together. Neaten the seam, then press it. Fold the
yoke up making a pleat. Make decorative stitch as marked joining the yoke and
base piece. Do the same for upper/lower front parts and upper/lower sleeves.
Press details.
5. Stitch front
shaped edges excluding a segment between marks. Press seams apart. Stitch back
shaped edges together. Press seams apart.
6. Mark fastening
slit with three lines on right front band’s right side: the first line is
parallel to front edging, it goes at 1.5 cm from front edging as ready; the
second and the third lines limit fastening length. Lay strengthened facing on
front band right sides together setting it opposite to front edging, coinciding
facings edge and marked line. Make stitching at 0.5 cm from marked line along
fastening up to lines limiting fastening length. Lay another facing
line-on-line to the line joining the first facing, then make stitching at 0.5
cm distance. Control at wrong side if facings are correctly stitched: stitches
must be parallel. Cut a hole. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from fastening
slit end. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole making a frame of
doubled facing; frame is equal to width between stitches. Make fixing stitch
along the seam joining the facing. Press another facing toward front band’s
inner edge, then make fixing stitch at 0.1 cm from the seam joining the facing.
Make buttonholes into front band with strengthened facing. Fix fastening ends
on wring side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Stitch facings’
edges. Set fixings between each pair of buttonholes; fixing’s length is equal
to frame width. Press front band.
7. Lay front band on
front part right sides together, then overstitch along front edging.
Overstitching goes at front part, between the hem and the notch pointing the
end of collar joining. Cut seams into front edging’s upper corners. Turn front
edgings right side out.
8. Stitch shoulder
edges together. Press seams apart.
9. Lay collars right
sides together. Overstitch collar ends/fall inserting a hook and an eyelet into
the seam. Cut extra fabric on seam. Turn the collar right side out, then press.
Lay stand-up collars right sides together, inert ready collar between them,
make notches equal, then stitch together overstitching stand-up ends. Turn the
stand-up collar right side out, then press.
10. Stitch shoulder
edges of back neckline facing and front band. Press seams apart.
11. Lay facing on the
garment right sides together, then overstitch the neckline inserting the collar
between the facing and the garment. Fold front bands and facings into wrong
side and press them.
12. Stitch pieces of
frill into one frill. Neaten lower edge, fold it 2 cm under and topstitch.
Neaten frill sides, fold 1cm under and topstitch. Make loose stitches along
upper edge, then gather fabric. Stitch the frill to garment hem folding front
band out (front band does not go into the seam).
13. Stitch lining
pieces in the same way as fabric one leaving a hole in left shoulder seam to
turn the garment out. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then
stitch to front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining
to front part slits. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, then
stitch lining hem and front bands to the seam joining the frill. Sew slit
allowances to mane details by hand or fix them with glue net. Turn the mantle
right side out through the hole into the seam, then stitch the hole.
14. Make upper
buttonhole into right front part and sew decorative button, sew buttons on left
front part.