You need: soft
wool; fusing, leather piping (see the length on front part pattern), 5 large
buttons, 4 small buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for
all seams. 2 cm for sleeve hems (side edge of front/back parts) and upper/lower
pocket’s upper edges. 0 cm for front part/front edging; front part/front
edging/back part hems; upper/lower slaps’ lower edges; upper/lower pockets’
three edges; collar ends/fall, stand-up collar’s vertical edges.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2
pieces
2. Front part – 2
pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Stand-up collar –
2 pieces
5. Front band – 2
pieces
6. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
7. Upper pocket – 2
pieces
8. Upper flap – 4
pieces
9. Lower pocket – 2
pieces
10. Lower flap – 4
pieces
Fusing:
1. Front band – 2
pieces
2. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Stand-up collar –
1 piece
5. Upper flap – 2
pieces
6. Lower flap – 2
pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of front bands? back neckline facing, stand-up collar, collar,
upper/lower flaps.
2. Lay collars right
sides together and stitch them together along collar fall close to edges.
Stitch stand-ups together inserting the collar between them. Turn it right side
out, then press. Trim stand-up with the collar along ends and collar fall with
the piping.
3. Lay upper flaps in
pairs right sides out, then trim shaped edge with the piping. Neaten straight
edges. Make a buttonhole as marked. Press upper pocket’s upper edge into wrong
side, fold it under and topstitch. Trim pocket edge with the piping. Lay upper
pocket on front part as marked, then topstitch. Lay the flap with its right
side on front part and with its’ neatened edge to pocket’s upper edge, then
topstitch. Fold the flap to the pocket. Sew a button according to the
buttonhole.
Do the same for lower
pocket.
4. Stitch back middle
seam. Press seam allowances leftwards, then neaten.
5. Cut four fabric
quadrates of 4x9 cm. Apply the fusing, neaten along perimeter. Lay them on slit
marking right sides together, then stitch along marking. Slit the fabric
between stitches as for slit pocket. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from
short edges. Turn the facing into wrong side trough this hole. Make
decorative/fixing stitch along edges of this hole.
6. Stitch shoulder
edge. Press seam allowances, then neaten. Lay the piping on the seam (right
side) and topstitch along both sides.
7. Tack the collar
into mantle neckline. Stitch shoulder edges of front bands and facing.
Overstitch inner edge. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and
overstitch along collar stitching line. Fold front bands into wrong side,
coincide front edgings and stitch them together.
8. Press garment side
edge (sleeve edge) into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch.
9. Trim front edging
and front/back hems with the piping.
10. Make buttonholes
into right front part, sew buttons to the left one.
Out advice: you can
use ready belt as well as a belt of garment fabric.