You need: soft
wool; fusing, lining, 5 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1 cm
for all seams. 1.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2
pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Front band – 2
pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Hidden fastening lining
– 2 pieces
Fusing: front bands,
back neckline facing, hidden fastening lining.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apple the fusing
to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, one of hidden fastening
lining.
2. Cut one-piece
stripe from left front band and left sleeve as marked.
3. Stitch the sleeve
to back part. Press the seam toward the sleeve, neaten and topstitch it.
4. Stitch middle back
part. Press the seam leftwards, neaten and topstitch it.
5. Stitch sleeves to
front part. Press seams toward sleeves, neaten and topstitch it.
6. Neaten the hem.
7. Mark fastening
slit with three lines on right front band’s right side: the first line is
parallel to front edging, it goes at 1.5 cm from front edging as ready; the
second and the third lines limit fastening length. Lay strengthened facing on
front band right sides together setting it opposite to front edging, coinciding
facings edge and marked line. Make stitching at 0.5 cm from marked line along
fastening up to lines limiting fastening length. Lay another facing
line-on-line to the line joining the first facing, then make stitching at 0.5
cm distance. Control at wrong side if facings are correctly stitched: stitches
must be parallel. Cut a hole. Make diagonal slashes at 1-1.5 cm from fastening
slit end. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole making a frame of
doubled facing; frame is equal to width between stitches. Make fixing stitch
along the seam joining the facing. Press another facing toward front band’s
inner edge, then make fixing stitch at 0.1 cm from the seam joining the facing.
Make buttonholes into front band with strengthened facing. Fix fastening ends
on wring side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Stitch facings’
edges. Set fixings between each pair of buttonholes; fixing’s length is equal
to frame width. Press front band.
8. Stitch shoulder
edges of front bands and back neckline facing. Neaten inner edge. Lay front
band on front part right sides together, then overstitch front edging, neckline
and hem. Cut upper/lower corner seams of front edging. Turn front edgings into
right side and press them. Make decorative stitch along left front edging
neckline and one-piece stripe.
9. Press the hem into
wrong side, then topstitch. Make decorative stitch along right front part’s
right side as marked, stitching goes down the hem.
10. Make a buttonhole
into one-piece stripe. Sew buttons as marked.