6010 ONE-BREASTED COAT
YOU NEED: wool/semiwool fabrics suitable for coats;
velvet/cotton velvet for collar (20 cm); felt of 20 cm length and 90 cm width;
lining; fusing; warmer of 80 cm length and 80 cm width; 4 buttons of 25 mm
diameter; 8 buttons of 12 mm; shoulder pads.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Flap – 2 pieces
6. Right small flap – 1 piece
7. Left small off-set welt – 1 piece
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Right small facing (rectangle of 12x4 cm) – 2
pieces
10. Facing (rectangle of 17.5x4 cm) – 4 pieces
11. Left small sacking – 1 piece
12. Right small sacking (rectangle of 12x13 cm) – 1
piece
13. Sacking (rectangle of 17.5x19 cm) – 2 pieces
Velvet:
14. Outer
collar – 1 piece
15. Stand-up collar – 1 piece
Felt:
16. Inner collar – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit
pleat);
2. Front part excluding front bands;
3. Both sleeves without slit facing;
4. Flaps, sackings/small sackings without changes;
Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one.
Fusing: front part, marked segment of front bands and
hem/sleeve hems allowances, half height of off-set welt.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part,
marked segment of front bands and hem/sleeve hems allowances, half height of
off-set welt.
2. Left front part:
Bend off-set
welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side
out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to
marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and
topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between
stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side.
Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings,
adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s
ends on the garment.
3. Stitch front darts and press them apart.
4. Overstitch flaps with the lining, turn them right
side out and press.
5. Both front parts: Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings
into back parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin
controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay
lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting
flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along
both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches
chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm
facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s
allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s
ends on fabric triangles.
6. Do the sake for small pocket into right front part.
7. Stitch back part along middle seam up to the vent.
8. Stitch side/shoulder seams.
9. Press allowances apart.
10. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right
side and stitch along hem line. Then turn right side out. Fold right back
part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn
right side out.
11. Fold the vent leftward and fix vent’s top with
diagonal stitch.
12. Stitch stand-up to outer collar and press
allowance apart.
13. Stretch the felt with hot iron (with wet gauze) to
give the felt the form of outer collar joint with stand-up.
14. Lay inner collar’s upper edge with its wrong side
on right side of outer collar’s upper edge and stitch with narrow zig zags. Lay
outer collar on inner one right sides together, stitch them along ends, turn
right side out and press the detail.
15. Stitch front bands to outer collar and press
allowances upwards.
16. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the
garment right sides together, adjust edges and overstitch front edgings and the
collar. Then turn right side out and press.
17. Make 1 cm stitch along closure and lapels up to
the collar.
18. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch
upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn
the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right
side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and
press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross
stitches and overlap the slit.
19.
Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the
cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats.
Stitch sleeve seam and press allowances apart. Pin sleeves to the garment
coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.
20. Cut the warmer into equal parts and sew it to
sleeve caps’ wrong sides.
21. Press the hem into wrong side and sew with blind
stitches.
22. Sew shoulder pads.
23. Stitch lining back part along middle seam.
24.
Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem.
Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm
length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides
together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the
garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem
and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent
facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back
vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then
stitch segment’s edges together.
25. Make buttonholes into left front edging, sew
buttons.
26. Make buttonholes into sleeves (do not cut the
fabric) and fix sleeve slits with buttons.