6011 ZIP-UP JACKET

YOU NEED: moreen/denim; lining; fusing of 55 cm length and 140 cm width; elastic braid; 4 buttons of 10 mm diameter; separating zip (length depends on person’s size).

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back yoke – 2 pieces

4. Front yoke – 2 pieces

5. Sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Outer stand-up collar – 1 piece

8. Inner collar – 1 piece

9. Inner stand-up collar – 1 piece

10. Patch pocket – 2 pieces

11. Flap – 4 pieces

12. Pocket facing – 2 pieces

13. Belt loops – 1 piece

14. Waistband – 1 piece

15. Cuff – 2 pieces

16. Front band – 2 pieces

17. Slit pocket_1 facing – 2 pieces

18. Slit pocket_2 facing – 2 pieces

19. Slit pocket valance – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Slit pocket sacking – 4 pieces

Fusing:

1. Outer collar – 1 piece

2. Outer stand-up collar – 1 piece

3. Front yoke – 2 pieces

4. Flap – 2 pieces

5. Slit pocket_1 facing – 2 pieces

6. Slit pocket_2 facing – 2 pieces

7. Cuff – 2 pieces

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar, outer stand-up collar, cuffs, front yokes, flaps and slit pocket facings.

2. Slit pocket with off-set welt into front parts: Lay slit pocket valance’s wrong side on sacking’s right side, fold valances edges under and stitch along edges. Tack the valance to the sacking along open edges.

3. Press slit pocket’s facing along the center right side out.

4. Pin pocket facings (turned toward front edging) on front part’s right side according to marks. Lay wrong side of sackings (without valances) above according to marks and stitch the facing and the sacking along both sides at 1 cm distance. Cut the fabric and sacking between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and stitch fabric triangles/fabric ends to the sacking (on wrong side).

5. Lay another sacking’s part on stitches sacking right side down, stitch along open edges and neaten allowances. On right side (for experienced sewers on wrong side): make fixing stitch along pocket entrance’s upper/side edges stitching the sacking.

6. Make pleats into patch pocket, press them and make two decorative topstitches at 3 mm from bandings.

7. Lay pocket facings on patch pockets right sides together, stitch along outer edges, turn right side out, press and make 5-mm decorative stitch.

8. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and stitch the pocket to front part.

9. Lay flaps right sides together, stitch along outer edges, turn right side out, press flaps and make 5-mm decorative stitch.

10. Lay downturned flap on front part’s right side and tack to front part’s upper edge.

11. Stitch the yoke to front part stitching the flap. Neaten allowances, press them toward the yoke and make 5-mm decorative stitch.

12. Lay back yokes right sides together, insert back part between them coinciding along edges, then stitch together. Turn the detail right side out, press and make 5-mm decorative stitch.

13. Do the same for shoulder seams.

14. Stitch side seam, neaten allowances.

15. Stitch lining front/back parts along side/shoulder seams. Stitch the lining to front bands.

16. Press closure’s allowances into wrong side, tack the zipper with its teeth visible. Lay front bands joint with lining on the garment right sides together, then overstitch front edgings stitching the zipper. Turn all right side out and press. Make 5-mm decorative stitch. Tack edges of fabric neckline/armholes and details’ lower edges to lining ones.

17. Apply the fusing to one of stand-up collar and one collar. Lay both collars right sides together and stitch along outer contour; turn the collar right side out, press it and make 5-mm decorative stitch. Lay both stand-ups right sides together, insert the collar so that reinforced stand-up laid on reinforced collar, then stitch them together; continue stitching along closure ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side, insert the neckline between them and stitch along the edge; continue stitching along stand-up’s upper seam.

18. Stitch sleeve seam to slit mark, neaten it and press allowances upwards. Press allowances below the slit apart and topstitch on the sleeve along the edge.

19. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding marks. Neaten allowances, press them toward armholes and make 5-mm decorative stitches.

20. Make pleats along sleeve hems, press them and tack along edges.

21. Lay cuffs right sides together, stitch short edges and turn details right side out. Stitch reinforced cuff to sleeve hem right sides together; press cuff’s open edge under and topstitch on the garment along the previous seam; continue 5-mm decorative stitching along cuff’s perimeter.

22. Stitch the waistband to jacket hem right sides together, turn the waistband right side out, press waistband's open edge under and topstitch horizontally for elastic braid. Pull the braid into coulisses and fix them with vertical stitches. Topstitch waistband’s open edge on the garment; continue 5-mm decorative topstitching along waistband’s perimeter.

23. Fold belt loop along the center right side out, stitch long edges, turn the detail right side out, press it and make decorative stitches along edges. Cut the detail into 4 pieces.

24. Fold belt loops’ open edges under, lay them on the waistband and stitch along edges.

25. Make buttonholes into flaps and cuffs.

26. Sew buttons.