6017 ONE-BREASTED JACKET

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; fusing of 120 cm length and 140 cm width; welting of 50 cm length and 90 cm width; warmer of 10 cm length and 90 cm width; 3 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 8 buttons of 14 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Side part – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Stand-up collar – 1 piece

8. Inner collar – 1 piece

9. Flap – 2 pieces

10. Off-set welt – 1 piece

11. Front band – 2 pieces

12. Little sacking (18.5x20 cm rectangle) – 1 piece

13. Facing (6.5x4 cm rectangle) – 4 pieces

14. Sacking – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part: use back part pattern+2 cm along middle ling for free-fit pleat (without vent’s facing)

2. Both sleeves (without slit’s facings)

3. Side part/flap/sacking and small sacking – without changes

4. Hems: 2 cm shorter than fabric’s ones.

Welting: upper marked front part (beginning from lapels’ dashed line).

NB: if you have check fabric, take into account when pinning patterns on the fabric how checks will coincide along seams.

Fusing: front parts, front bands, outer collar, stand-up collar, flap, facing’s width, inner collar and small sacking.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, off-set welt, flaps and facings.

2. Cut pocket entrance. Stitch darts and press them apart. Tack pocket entrance together.

3. Left front part:

Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment.

4. Stitch front relieves and press allowances apart.

5. Overstitch the flap with the lining, turn the detail right side out and press it.

6. Both front parts:

Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

7. Cut darts into welting parts coinciding edges, then stitch with wide zig zags.

8. Quilt the welting on wrong side according to marking.

9. Stitch back middle seam.

10. Stitch shoulder seams.

11. Stitch side parts to back part down to vents.

12. Press allowances apart.

13. Stitch stand-up collar to outer collar and press allowances apart.

14. Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch outer collar to front bands. Press allowances apart.

15. Lay outer collar with front bands on the garment right sides together and overstitch front edgings and the collar; then turn right side out and press. Sew outer collar’s edge on neckline.

16. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.

17. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

18. Separate the warmer, fold it along the center and sew on wrong side at sleeve caps.

19. Fold vent facing into right side and stitch along back hem line; turn right side out and sew with blind stitches.

20. Fold side part’s hem into right side, stitch along vent facing’s edge, turn right side out and sew with blind stitches.

21. Overlap vents backwards and fix them with diagonal stitch at tops.

22. Press sleeve hems into wrong side and sew with blind stitches.

23. Sew shoulder pads.

24. Stitch back lining along middle seam.

25. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

26. Make buttonholes into left front edging and into lapel, sew buttons.

27. Make buttonholes into sleeve (do not cut through) and fix sleeve slit with buttons.