6019 ONE-BREASTED JACKET WITH THREE BUTTONS

YOU NEED: wool/semiwool suitable for suits; lining; welting of 40 cm length and 90 cm width; warmer of 80 cm length and 8 cm width; 3 buttons of 17 mm diameter; 8 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Side part – 2 pieces

4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Elbow part – 2 pieces

6. Flap – 2 pieces

7. Off-set welt – 1 piece

8. Sacking – 2 pieces

9. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

10. Stand-up collar – 1 folded piece

11. Inner collar – 2 pieces

12. Front band – 2 pieces

13. Small sacking – 1 piece

14. Pocket facing (rectangle of 19x3 cm) – 4 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit pleat);

2. Front part (excluding front bands);

3. Both sleeve details without slit facing;

4. Side part, flap, sacking and small sacking – without changes;

5. Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric ones.

Fusing: outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, front parts, side parts, flaps, facings and hems as well as half width of off-set welt and left back part vent’s allowance.

Welting: upper front part (between lapel and dashed line).

NB! In you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how checks coincide on seams.

INSTRUCTIONS:

NB: when stitching details together, press all allowances apart.

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer/inner collars, stand-up collar, front parts, side parts, flaps, facings and hems as well as half width of off-set welt and left back part vent’s allowance.

2. Cut pocket entrance into front part, stitch darts, cut them along bendings and press them apart, tack pocket entrance together.

3. Left front part: Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out, overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the contour. On right side: stitch welt’s ends on the garment.

4. Stitch front relieves.

5. Lay fabric flap on lining one right sides together, stitch them together along outer edges, turn right side out, then press.

6. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

7. Stitch middle back seam to vent mark as well as vent allowances’ upper edges.

8. Press marked segment on shoulders, then stitch shoulder seams.

9. Quilt the welting’s wrong side with blind stitches according to marks.

10. Press marked segment on back relieves, then stitch them.

11. Stitch inner collar’s middle seam and press allowances apart.

12. Stitch inner collar into fabric neckline coinciding control marks with shoulder seams, stitch outer collar to front bands.

13. Lay front bands joint with outer collar on the garment right sides together and overstitch front edgings and the collar. Turn all right side out and press.

14. Stitch outer collar’s lower edge to fabric back neckline.

15. Press sleeve’s upper part together and stitch upper sleeve to elbow part down to slit mark. Press allowances apart and turn the sleeve right side out. Fold slit allowances and hem allowance into right side, stitch the corner diagonally, cut extra fabric at 1 cm from the seam and press allowances apart. Press allowances into wrong side, sew with cross stitches and overlap the slit.

16. Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

17. Cut the warmer into equal parts and sew it to sleeve caps’ wrong sides.

18. Fold left back part vent’s allowance into right side and stitch along hem line. Fold right back part’s hem into right side and stitch along vent allowance’s edge, then turn right side out and press.

19. Fold the vent leftward and press it.

20. Press the hem/sleeve hems into wrong side and sew them with blind stitches.

21. Sew shoulder pads.

22. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

23. Make buttonholes into left front part; sew buttons.

24. Make buttonholes into sleeves (do not cut) and fix slits with buttons.