6021
DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET
YOU NEED: wool/semiwool; lining; welting of 40 cm
length and 90 cm width; fusing of 135 cm length and 140 cm width; watmer of 80
cm length and 8 cm width; 11 buttons of 18 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Outer collar – 1 piece
6. Off-set welt – 1 piece
7. Flap – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 2 pieces
10. Facing (15.5x3 cm rectangle) – 4 pieces
11. Sacking (18x21 cm rectangle) – 2 pieces
12. Small sacking – 1 piece
Lining:
13. Back part+2 cm along middle line (for free-fit
pleat)
14. Front part (draw along front bands’ line)
15. Sleeve both details, flap, sacking, small sacking
– without changes
16. Lining hems are 2 cm shorter than fabric one
Fusing: front parts, front bands, outer/inner collars, flap,
off-set welt, facing, hem allowance.
Welting: upper front part’s marked segment (between lapel and
dashed line)
NB! In you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how
checks coincide on seams.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front parts,
front bands, outer/inner collars, flaps, off-set welts, facings, hem allowance.
2. Left front part:
Bend off-set welt along the center wrong side out,
overstitch short edges, turn it right side out and press. Pin downfolded
off-set welt on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay lining sacking on
off-set welt; pin upfolded fabric sacking on and topstitch along both sides of marking
at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’
ends; turn sackings into wrong side. Topstitch welt’s free edge on the sacking
with zig zags. Fold both sackings, adjust them and stitch together along the
contour. On right side: sew the welt with blind stitches and topstitching at 5
mm from edges.
3. Stitch front darts and press towards the center.
4. Overstitch the flap with the lining, turn right
side out and press.
5. Both front parts:
Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings
into front parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin
controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay
lining sacking on lower facings. Lay fabric sacking on upper facing inserting
flap folded upward between upper facing and fabric sacking and topstitch along
both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches
chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings into wrong side and make 1-cm
facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s
allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch
facing’s ends on fabric triangles.
6. Stitch back middle seam. Stitch back relieves.
7 Stitch shoulder seams.
8. Quilt the welting with blind stitches according to
marks. Sew the welting to shoulder seams’ allowances.
9. Stitch inner collar along middle ling and press
allowances apart.
10. Stitch inner collar into neckline, stitch outer
collar to front bands. Press allowances apart.
11. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the
jacket right sides together coinciding edges, and overstitch the collar and
front edgings. Turn all right sides out, press and tack collars’ lower edges
together.
12. Press sleeve details together on the marked
segment. Stitch upper sleeve to lower one.
13.
Ease sleeve cap slightly (narrow close stitches) between marks and pull the
cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats.
Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at
sleeve side.
14. Cut the warmer into two pieces and sew it along
sleeve caps.
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16. Sew shoulder pads.
17.
Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few cms above garment’s hem.
Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric’s, leave a segment of 20 cm
length into an elbow seam. Lay the lining into fabric garment right sides
together, coinciding middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the
garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into
hem and stitch the lining to hem edge, side vent facing and along back vent
facing’s edge (before you do it, slash horizontally lining allowances at back
vent’s hem). Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then
stitch segment’s edges together.
18. Make buttonholes into the lapel and front parts.
19. Sew buttons.