6025 UNIFORM SHIRT
YOU NEED: moreen/denim type fabric; fusing of 35 cm length and
140 cm width;10 buttons of 10 mm diameter.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Collar – 2 pieces
7. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
8. Flap – 4 pieces
9. Belt loop – 1 piece
10. Inset pocket’s valance – 2 pieces
11. Inset pocket’s off-set welt – 2 pieces
12. Front band – 2 pieces
13. Epaulette – 2 pieces
14. Cuff – 2 pieces
15. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
Lining:
Inset sacking – 2 pieces
Fusing: collar, cuffs.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer
collar and outer cuffs.
2. Make pleats into the pocket as
directed, press and make decorative stitches at 3 mm from bendings.
3. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong
side, press the edge under and stitch along edge.
4. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong
side and stitch the pocket on left front part.
5. Stitch flaps right sides together along
outer edges, turn right side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch.
6. Tack downturn flap on front part’s
right side.
7. Stitch the flap to front part, press
frontward and make 5 mm decorative stitch.
8. Lay the valance’s wrong side on
sacking’s right side and stitch along the edge. Back the valance to sacking
along open edges.
9. Press off-set welt along the center
right side out.
10. Pin downturned welt on front band. Lay
the sacking (side without valance, wrong side down) above and stitch the welt
together with the sacking at 1 cm from marking both side. Cut the
fabric/sacking between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn sackings
into wrong side. Stitch fabric triangles/welts’ ends to the sacking (wrong side).
11. Press the sacking along the center
wrong side out, stitch along lower edges and neaten allowances. Make fixing
stitch on right side (on wrong side, for experiences sewers) of upper/side
edges of pocket entrance stitching the sacking.
12. Make pleats into back part, press as
directed and tack along edges.
13. Lay yokes right sides together, insert
upper back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right
side out, press and make 5 mm decorative stitch.
14. Lay front bands on the garment right
sides together and overstitch front edgings. Turn details right side out, then
press. Tack front’s/front bands’ necklines together.
15. Stitch yokes to front parts coinciding
marks in the same way as on back part, inserting front parts with front bands
between yokes.
16. Stitch belt loop along the center
wrong side out, stitch long edges, turn right side out, press and make
decorative stitches along edges. Cut the detail in two pieces.
17. Fold loops’’ open edges into wrong
side, lay loops on the yoke and stitch along edges.
18. Stitch epaulettes right sides together
along perimeter excluding short straight edge. Turn the detail right side out,
press it and make decorative stitch along the edge.
19. Lay epaulettes turned toward sleeves
on right side of the yoke, stitch, then cut allowances to 5 mm. Press
epaulettes toward the neckline and make 7 mm decorative stitch.
20. Stitch collars right sides together
along outer edges. Turn the collar right side out and press it.
21. Stitch soft (inner) collar to fabric
neckline right sides together coinciding marks with shoulder seams. Press lower
edge of reinforced (outer) collar under and stitch to garment neckline along
the edge and at 7 mm from the edge.
22. Stitch upper/elbow sleeves up to the
slit mark, neaten and press allowances upward. Press apart allowances below the
slit. Topstitch allowances at 5 mm from the slit.
23. Stitch sleeves into armholes
coinciding marks, neaten allowances, press toward armholes and make 5 mm
decorative stitch.
24. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single
lap seam right side together. Press allowances frontward, cut lower allowance’s
half width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with
double decorative stitch.
25. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press as
directed and tack along edges.
26. Fold the cuff along the center wrong
side out, stitch short edges and turn the detail right side out. Stitch cuff’s
reinforces side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff’s open edge
inside and stitch to the garment along the previous seam making 5 mm decorative
stitch along cuff’s perimeter.
27. Press hem allowance into wrong side
and turn in shirt hem.
28. Make buttonholes into left front
edging, flaps and cuffs. Sew buttons.