6025 SHIRT

YOU NEED: white poplin; fusing of 55 cm length (for L and L-XL sizes) and of 90 cm width; 7 pearl buttons of 10 mm diameter; 2 peal buttons of 7 mm diameter; 2 buttons of collar туре of 10 mm diameter.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece

2. Front piece – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Yoke – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 2 pieces

6. Slit facing – 2 pieces

7. Cuff – 4 pieces

Fusing: collar and cuffs.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of outer collar; apply two layers of fusing to wrong side of outer cuffs.

2. Press closure allowances double into wrong side along dotted/solid lines, then tack along bending.

3. Make pleats into back part, press and tack along edges.

4. Lay yokes right sides together, insert back part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out, press and make decorative stitch.

5. Do the same to stitch yokes to front parts coinciding control marks.

6. Pin slit facing’s right side on wrong side of sleeve according to marks and stitch along the edge. Cut the fabric along cut ling and process open edge with hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and fold half width of facing into right side. Fold facing’s open edges and stitch on the sleeve along edge.

7. Lay sleeves on armholes right sides together and stitch. Press allowances toward armholes, cut half width of lower allowance, fold upper allowance under and stitch on the garment along upper edge with single decorative stitch.

8. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single lap seam, press allowances frontward and make double decorative stitch.

9. Lay collars right sides together and stitch along outer edges; turn right side out and press.

10. Stitch non-reinforced lower collar to fabric neckline right side together coinciding marks with shoulder seams. Press reinforced outer collar’s lower edge into wrong side and stitch to neckline edge at 7 mm from the edge.

11. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press and tack along edge.

12. Stitch cuffs to sleeve hem in the same way as the collar.

13. Turn in shirt’s hem.

14. Make buttonholes into left front edging/cuffs.

15. Sew buttons on right front edging.

16. Fold the cuff along the center and pull buttons of collar туре in.