YOU NEED: gabardine of 150 cm; lining (mesh); 1 separable
zipper; 1 metallic zipper; 2 clasps, Velcro.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back stripe – 2
pieces
2. Front stripe –
2 pieces
3. Back yoke – 1
folded piece
4. Back part – 1
folded piece
5. Right upper
pocket – 1 piece
6. Right upper pocket
flap – 2 pieces
7. Right lower pocket
– 1 piece
8. Right lower
pocket flap – 2 pieces
9. Left lower
pocket – 1 piece
10. Pen pocket – 1
piece
11. Front part – 2
pieces
12. Left upper
pocket – 1 piece
13. Left lower
pocket’s lower-side part – 1 piece
14. Right lower
pocket’s lower side part – 1 piece
15. Right upper
pocket’s lower-side part – 1 piece
16. Pocket entrance
facing – 1 piece
Lining:
3. Back yoke – 1
folded piece
4. Back part – 1
folded piece
11. Front part – 2
pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Press left upper pen pocket allowances into wrong
side along the perimeter. Mark vertical middle line on the pocket and topstitch
the pocket on left upper pocket along this line. Then topstitch pen pocket side
edges on coinciding line.
2. Press left upper pocket’s allowance into wrong side
and topstitch it. Press allowances along front/lower edges of pocket into wrong
side. Cut a small piece of Velcro braid. Stitch napped piece under pocket upper
edge along rectangle perimeter and along diagonals. Pin the pocket on left
front part along coinciding lines and mark the place of Velcro piece with
hooks. Turn pocket upper edge downwards and topstitch Velcro piece with hooks
on front part. Topstitch the pocket along front/lower edges; tack pocket side
edge.
3. Pin pocket entrance facing on left lower pocket’s
lower-side part right sides together and stitch along the marking. Cut facing
and lower-side part between stitches, diagonally to corners’ tops. Pull the facing
into wrong side, press pocket entrance’s edges. Stitch metallic zipper under
pocket entrance (teeth hidden). Stitch lower edges of lower-side part. Stitch
lower-side part to outer edges of left lower pocket slashing lower-side part
allowance at pocket corners. Lay lower-side part under the pocket, topstitch
edges. Press the allowance of lower-side part’s open lengthwise edge into wrong
side, topstitch left front part along this edge; note coinciding lines. Lay
pocket lower edge on the seam joining lower-side part and press it. Then fold
lower-side part’s sides into wrong side, lay pocket’s edges on the seam at
bottom and press them. Do not press pocket’s upper part.
4. Press upper edge allowance of both right pockets
into wrong side. Press allowances of short edges of both right pockets into
wrong side and topstitch them. Stitch lower-side pocket to pocket side/lower
edges right sides together slashing lower-side part’s allowance at pocket lower
corners. Lay lower-side part under the pocket, topstitch pocket edges. Press
lengthwise edge allowance of pocket lower-side part into wrong side. Lay pocket
edges on pressed edge of lower-side part and press them. Topstitch lower-side
part on right front part; topstitch lower-side parts of lower pockets close to
each other.
5. Lay right pockets’ flaps in pairs right sides
together, overstitch them along side edges/lower edge and topstitch it.
Topstitch napped pieces of Velcro under flaps. Stitch flaps to right front part
according to marks. Press flaps downwards and topstitch near joining seam.
Topstitch pieces of Velcro with hooks on pockets.
6. Stitch back middle seam. Press seam allowance
leftwards, topstitch back left detail along the seam. Stitch back yoke to back
part, press seam allowance towards the yoke, topstitch the yoke.
7. Stitch
side seams.
8. Fold each front/back stripes along the center and
overstitch them along lengthwise ends and one of short edges. Topstitch stripes
along edges. Pull overstitched end of stripes into clasps and topstitch them.
Fold open ends of stripes under and topstitch them on front part and back part
along square perimeter and along diagonals. Pull overstitches ends of back
stripes into clasps.
9. Stitch mesh lining details excluding shoulder sees.
Lay the lining on the garment right sides together and stitch lower edges,
neckline edges and armholes edges together; stop stitching 1 cm before edges.
Turn the waistcoat right side out, process seams and press. Pull shoulder seams
through unstitched edge of front bands, stitch them together.
10. Press edging allowances into wrong side. Stitch
braid of separable zipper under edging allowance.
11. Make
decorative stitches along armhole edges, neckline and hem.