6051 OLIVE SUIT (TROUSERS)

YOU NEED: natural or mixed fabric of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; zipper, 1 button.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

2. Button catch – 1 folded piece

3. Front side part – 2 pieces

4. Waistband left part – 1 piece

5. Waistband right part – 1 piece

6. Back pocket flap – 4 pieces

8. Back valance – 2 pieces

9. Back pocket facing - 2 pieces

10. Belt loop – 1 piece

11. Front part – 2 pieces

12. Back part – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Front sacking – 4 pieces

7. Back pocket lining – 2 pieces

13. Front part lining – 2 pieces

Fusing: waistband details, button catch, flaps, facings.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, button catch, flaps and facing.

Sew back and back darts and press them toward the center.

Make cut pockets into back parts: press 4-cm stripe of interfacing on the back part wrong side pocket marking. Fold flap details in pairs, right sides together, and overstitch along three edges. Turn them right side out, neaten and press. Topstitch the valance on lining. Press pocket facings along the center, right side over. Pin the facing along the pocket entrance on right side, with its bending contrary to marking, placing the flap under upper facing. Stitch on 1 cm from the line. Cut the back part between stitched lines, bias to stitch ends. Be careful with facing and sacking when cutting! Press the seam allowances on the garment. Turn the facings into wrong side so that create a neat frame, then tack. From the right side, make a stitch strictly on the facing joining seam. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side, then topstitch strictly on the facing from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. From the wrong side, sew pocket sacking free end to facing joining seam allowances, then press sacking downward, make them equal, then stitch.

Place wrong side of side part on sacking right side, turn inner edge under and stitch along the edge. Sew the side and sacking along open edges. Stitch sacking on the garment right sides together along the pocket entrance. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch. Make sackings equal, and stitch edges. Sew sackings and garment waistband edge.

Sew front middle seam 3-4 cm downward the closure. Press the one-piece facing into left part of trousers under the wrong side along the center. Cut the facing from the right part of trousers, leaving 1 cm allowance. Press this allowance into the wrong side and tack one side of zipper, with its teeth close to folding. Fold the button catch along the center, with its wrong sides together, then neaten the lengthwise folding and the rounded one. Tack the ready edge, placing it under slit right side and the zipper. Topstitch the right side along the edge, joining the zipper and the button catch. Pin middle lines together. Pin zipper free braid to left side facing, then stitch; do not catch the front part. Then stitch the left part along the marking, catching facing and the zipper.

Sew inside leg seams. Neaten allowances.

Fold belt loops along the center, tuck and topstitch them. Sew belt loops to garment upper edge: on front part – above pleats, on back part – by sides of darts, near side seams.

Sew belt details to upper edge of the garment, sewing the closure allowance to button catch. Fold the belt detail along the center, then stitch front short edges. Sew the slit in front middle seam, then, with the same stitch, the back middle seam up to the waist upper edge. Turn waistband inner edges under and topstitch along joining seams. Turn belt loops upward and sew them to waistband upper edge.

Turn hem allowances under, then sew with blind stitches above the seams.

Make a buttonhole into waistband right end, sew the button on left one.