YOU NEED: nylon of 150 cm width; lining; wide elastic braid;
eyelets; cord; Velcro.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back patch
pocket flap – 4 pieces
2. Back patch
pocket – 2 pieces
3. Front patch
pocket flap – 4 pieces
4. Front patch
pocket facing – 2 pieces
5. Front patch
pocket – 4 pieces
8. Front part – 2 pieces
9. Front lower part – 2 pieces
10. Cut side – 2
pieces
11. Upper pocket
facing – 2 pieces
12. Upper pocket
valance – 2 pieces
15. Button catch –
1 piece
16. Back part – 2 pieces
17. Yoke – 2
pieces
18. Waistband – 1
piece
Lining:
6. Front part – 2 pieces
7. Back part – 2 pieces
13. Upper pocket
upper sacing – 2 pieces
14. Upper pocket
lower sacking – 2 pieces
Fusing:
flap, facing, button catch, waistband.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, button
catch, flaps and pocket facing.
Fold flap details in pairs right sides together, then
topstitch along three sides. Turn right side out, overcast, press and
topstitch. Press back/front pocket upper edges
allowances into wrong side, turn them under, then topstitch. Topstitch the
Velcro on flaps and pockets. Press back pockets open edges inwards, stitch on
back parts along marking.
Press sort end allowances of each front pocket facing,
then topstitch. Sew facing to pocket side and lower edges, right sides
together, making notches at facing allowances at pocket lower corners. Place
facing under the pocket, topstitch pocket along edges. Press pocket facing
allowance of open lengthwise edge into wrong side. Press pocket edges to facing
pressed edge. Topstitch the facing on the garment front part.
Sew lower parts to
front parts. Sew yokes to back parts inserting flaps according to marking.
Press seams into yokes and topstitch them.
Press a stripe of lining of 4 cm width on pocket
marking on back part wrong side. Topstitch the valance on the lining. Pin
sackings to right side to pocket entrances along marking, with their edges
coinciding. Sew along the marking. Cut garment front part between stitches,
bias to stitch ends. Be careful with sackings! Press seam allowances into
trousers. Turn sackings into wrong side so that they make strict frame, then
tack. Topstitch strictly along sacking joining seam from the right side. Turn
small triangles (on notch ends) into wrong side and topstitch them on sackings
strictly from one stitch ends to another stitch ends. Press sackings under,
make them equal and stitch.
Press pocket facing along the center with its right
side out. Sew the side to front part inserting facing between them.
Place lining front and back parts on fabric front and
back parts, tack them along edges and overwork them as a single details.
Sew front parts middle seam 3-4 cm downwards the
closure. Press one-piece facing of left part into wrong side along the middle
line; cut the facing at right part, leaving allowance of 1 cm. Press the
allowance into wrong side and tack one side of zipper, with its tooth closely
neat bending. Fold the button catch along the center, then overcast lengthwise
and rounded bending. Tack ready edge, placing it under slit right edge and
the zipper. Topstitch right edge along the edge sewing the zipper and the
button catch. Pin middle lines. Sew zipper ready braid to left facing; do not
catch front part. Topstitch left part along marking catching facing with the
zipper.
Sew unsewn part of
front middle seam and back middle seam with one stitch, then overcast
allowances.
Sew the waistband to
garment upper edge sewing closure allowance to the button catch. Fold the
waistband along the center and overcast front short ends. Turn waistband inner
edge and topstitch it along joining seam.
Press hem allowances under and sew it with blind hem
stitch.
Make a buttonhole into waistband left edge, sew the
button on right one.