6066 MILITARY-STYLE JACKET

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for suits of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; 5 buttons; 2 zippers.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Side part – 2 pieces

3. Lower pocket – 2 pieces

4. Upper pocket – 1 piece

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Front part – 2 pieces

7. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

8. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Side part – 2 pieces

6. Front part – 2 pieces

8. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: front part, stand-up collar.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front part, stand-up collar.

 

2. Sew front darts.

 

3. Press pocket upper edges to wrong side, fold them under and topstitch. Press pocket open edges to wrong side and topstitch pocket on front part along marking.

 

4. Sew the side to front part.

 

5. Sew back middle seam. Sew back relieve down the vent and press allowance backwards. Turn vent left allowance to garment right side, stitch it along hem line, turn right side out and press. Topstitch vent left edge. Turn vent right edge hem to right side, stitch along vent allowance, turn right side out and press. Lay the vent sideward and make diagonal fixing stitch on vent top. Press hem allowance under.

 

6. Sew shoulder seams together.

 

7. Sew upper sleeve to lower sleeve to the mark. Sew the zipper under the slit. Sew sleeves into armholes. Press sleeve hem allowances to wrong side. Sew shoulder pads.

 

8. Sew front bands to front part lining; sew lining derails in the same way as fabric details.

 

9. Sew inner stand-up into fabric neckline, right side in. Sew outer stand-up into lining neckline. Lay the garment on lining right side together and stitch them with single stitch: 3 cm of front bands lower edges along front part hem, edgings and the collar. Turn the garment right side out and press. Fix outer stand-up lower edge on back neckline edge of garment.

 

10. Fold lining hem and sleeve hems under and sew with blind stitches to garment hems.

 

11. Make buttonholes into left front art and stand-up. Sew buttons on right front part.