YOU NEED: fabric suitable for suits (150 cm width), lining,
fusing, 4 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2
pieces
2. Side part – 2
pieces
3. Flap – 4 pieces
4. Sacking – 2 pieces
5. Pocket facing –
4 pieces
6. Off-set welt –
1 piece
7. Upper
sacking – 1 piece
8. Lower
edging – 2 pieces
9. Front insert – 2
pieces
10. Front part – 2
pieces
11. Collar – 1 piece
12. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2
pieces
2. Side part – 2
pieces
4. Sacking – 2 pieces
7. Upper
sacking – 1 piece
12. Upper sleeve –
2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve –
2 pieces
14. Front
lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: front part, flap, facing, off-set
welt, collar, front insert, lower edging.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply fusing to
wrong side of front part, flap, facing, off-set welt, collar, front insert,
lower edging front part, flap, facing, off-set welt, collar, front insert,
lower edging.
2. Stitch front darts.
3. Cut slit pocket
with welt into left front part: press welts along the center right side out.
Apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of pocket slit. Press
the welt along the center wrong side out. Lay off-set welt and one of sackings
on front part’s right side, right sides together, so that edges meet, and
stitch. Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at
stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Fold facings into wrong side through the slit,
press the welt towards pocket entrance. Stitch another facing to wrong side to
welt allowance. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch
accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings,
adjust, and stitch them together.
4. Stitch side part to front part.
5. Lay flaps right sides together, stitch them along
outer edges, turn them right side out and press. Press facings along the center
wrong side out. Lay the flap on upper facing, right sides together. Stitch
facings on front part’s right side right sides together according to marks. Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric
diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Fold facings into wrong side
making a neat frame. Stitch sackings on wrong side to facing allowances. Turn
small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between
upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust, and stitch them
together.
6. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch back bulk seam
downward to vent, press allowances backwards. Fold vent left allowance into
garment right side, stitch along hem line, turn it right side out and press.
Topstitch vent left edge. Fold the turndown of vent right edge into garment
right side, stitch it along vent’s allowance edge, turn right side out and
press it. Press the vent towards the side part and make diagonal fixing stitch
along vent’s top. Press hem allowance into wrong side.
7. Stitch shoulder seams.
8. Stitch upper sleeve to lower sleeve. Stitch sleeves
into armholes. Press hem allowance into wrong side. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Lay lower edgings right sides together and stitch
them together along outer/lower edges. Turn them right side out and press.
Stitch together lower edges, front inserts and the collar.
10. Stitch lining details together. Tack the lining to
the jacket wrong sides together, fold lining hem allowance and sleeve hems
under and sew to the garment.
11. Insert edging and neckline edge between stitch
edging and the collar, them stitch together.
12. Make buttonholes into left front part, sew buttons
on right one and on sleeves.