YOU NEED: whipcord
with a pattern; knitted fabric lining; warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper
(length depends on garment front length); elastic braid of 5.5 cm width for
waistband.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
2. Back
part – 1 piece
3. Collar
– 2 pieces
4. Large
sacking – 2 pieces
5. Off-set
welt – 2 pieces
6.
Waistband – 1 piece
7.
Waistband placket – 2 pieces
Lining:
8. Front
part – 2 pieces
9. Back
part – 1 piece
10. Small
sacking – 2 pieces
Warmer:
Topstitch the
warmer to wrong side of back/front parts, sleeves, placket and outer collar
according to contour.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay
fusing reinforcement under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining
ready welt’s width. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt
on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt.
Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch the welt.
Stitch large sacking to upper line of pocket marking. Cut pocket entrance
between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket
marking. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch
sackings’ edges fixing pocket’s corners. Sacking edges must enter the seam
joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch
shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams.
3. Stitch
lining details.
4. Fix
elastic braid into waistband making 2 decorative stitches. Stitch plackets to
waistband. Stitch the waistband to waistcoat. Fix waistband plackets on wrong
side to front part’s lining.
5. Lay
zipper’s part on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging).
Overstitch edgings with lining inserting the zipper. Overstitch the collar and
stitch it into the neckline. Stitch the lining to waistband.
6. Turn the garment right side out
though a armhole and stitch the lining to armhole.
7.
Topstitch the edgings and the collar.
8. Press
ready garment.