YOU NEED: whipcord;
lining; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including
stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pockets length); elastic
braid of 4.5 cm width for cuffs; elastic cord for the hood; 2 holders for the
cord; 2 metallic locks; Velcro.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower
allowance; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front
part – 2 pieces
2. Back
part – 1 piece
3. Side
front part – 2 pieces
4. Side
back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve
– 2 pieces
7. Sleeve
side part – 4 pieces
8. Sleeve
insert – 2 pieces
9. Hood –
2 pieces
10. Hood
enter part – 1 piece
11. Hood
facing – 1 piece
12. Cuff –
2 pieces
13. Cuff
placket – 2 pieces
14. Sleeve
half-belt – 2 pieces
15. Front
band – 2 pieces
16. Large
sacking – 2 pieces
17.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
18. Front
part – 2 pieces
19. Back
part – 1 piece
20. Sleeve
– 2 pieces
21. Side
font part – 2 pieces
22. Small
sacking – 2 pieces
23. Hood –
2 pieces
24. Hood
center part – 1 piece
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the
fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt.
Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and
line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of side front
part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally
towards pocket marking’s corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam
allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at
0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front part’s right side. Stitch small sacking to
zipper’s lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s
upper braid. Stitch sackings’ edges. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam
joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch
side part to front/back parts coinciding front control marks for slit
processing. Slack slit allowance at side front part. Stitch sleeve inserts to
upper sleeves. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch sleeve side parts to sleeve
center parts. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch
shoulder seam along back part. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Topstitch
seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams.
Stitch hood parts together. Topstitch the hood along its center piece. Stitch
the hood into neckline. Set blocks into the hood.
3. Press
inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front
part’s lining. Stitch jacket’s lining coinciding control marks for slit
processing. Slash slit allowance. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Stitch
lining parts and hood parts together, them join it with hood facing. Stitch
hood lining into lining neckline.
4. Set
elastic braid into cuffs and make decorative stitches. Apply the fusing to
half-belt and cuff placket. Topstitch the Velcro according to marks on sleeve
half-belt and cuff placket. Overstitch the half-belt. Overstitch cuffs with
cuff plackets inserting half-belts. Stitch cuffs to sleeves, setting elastic
braids’ edge into the seam.
5. Lay one
part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging).
Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the
garment right side out.
6. Stitch the
lining to cuffs.
7.
Overstitch slits with lining.
8. Press
the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.
9.
Topstitch edgings and the hood.
10. Press
ready jacket.
11. Pull
the cord into the hood.