6122 JACKET WITH POCKET INTO RELIEVES

YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pocket’s length); trimming cord; elastic braids of 4.5 cm cuffs; elastic braid for jacket’s hem; 2 holder for cord.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems of upper part; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 1 piece

3. Back yoke – 1 piece

4. Front yoke – 2 pieces

5. Back insert – 1 piece

6. Front insert – 2 pieces

7. Side front part – 2 pieces

8. Side back part – 2 pieces

9. Center sleeve – 2 pieces

10. Lower sleeve – 4 pieces

11. Collar – 2 pieces

12. Cuff – 2 pieces

13. Front band – 2 pieces

14. Large sacking – 2 pieces

15. Small sacking – 2 pieces

Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes’ length depends on trimming’s length.

NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.

Lining:

16. Front part – 2 pieces

17. Back part – 1 piece

18. Sleeve – 2 pieces

Warmer:

Topstitch the warmer along contour of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to pocket place at front part. Stitch the zipper with small sacking to front part. Stitch zipper’s another edge with large sacking to side front part. Slash corner’s allowances. Stitch side part to front part stitching sackings together. Make fixings at pocket entrance and make decorative stitch. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and the hem.

2. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contour’s.

3. Stitch side parts to back part. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch inserts to back/front parts inserting a trim, then topstitch. Stitch lower sleeves along armholes. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch center parts of sleeve and yoke together. Stitch lower sleeves along middle seams. Stitch the yoke to back/front parts joining sleeves’ center/lower parts and making a trim. Topstitch the seam joining the yoke. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline.

4. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front part’s lining. Stitch lining parts together. Stitch lining details together leaving a hole in a sleeve’s seam unstitched. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.

5. Stitch cuffs and elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch it to cuff’s length and make 2 decorative stitches.

For manufacture stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a ring.

Stitch cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braid’s edge into the seam.

6. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.

7. Stitch the lining to cuffs.

8. Make holes for the cord into hem lining. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.

9. Topstitch edgings and collar.

10. Press ready jacket.

11. Pull the cord into jacket hem (wrong side).