7046 COLLARLESS JACKET

 

YOU NEED: semi-wool, lining, fusing; 5 buttons; shoulder pads.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

2. Back part – 1 folded piece

3. Upper sacking – 4 pieces

4. Lower sacking – 4 pieces

5. Front part – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Lining:

8. Back part – 1 piece

9. Pocket – 1 piece

10. Front part – 2 pieces

11. Sleeve – 2 pieces

 

Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing.

 

2. Cut side front slit pockets: stitch 2 sackings to right side of both front parts along upper/lower marking so that sacking’ open edges meet strictly at the center. Cut the front part between stitches (stop cutting before ends), cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Turn facings into wrong side; fold upper facing upwards, turn joining seam with lower one making a frame, then stitch along joining seam. Turn small triangles on slits at wrong side. Adjust sackings and stitch them together.

 

3. Stitch jacket’s side/shoulder seams.

 

4. Stitch sleeve seams, press them apart. Stitch sleeves into jacket armholes according to marks. Press sleeve hem allowance into wrong side.

 

4. Sew shoulder pads.

 

5. Press inside pocket’s allowances into wrong side, lay it on lining of front part according to marks, them stitch.

 

6. Stitch back neckline facing to front bands.

 

7. Stitch lining details together in the same way as fabric ones, excluding a segment of about 20 cm length into one of elbow seams. Stitch front bands to lining. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding them along middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along edgings and neckline. Stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through unstitches segment into sleeve, then stitch this segment. Sew lining sleeve hem to sleeve hem.

 

8. Oversweep edging and neckline, press it and topstitch.

 

9. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons of left one.