YOU
NEED: fabric
suitable for cloaks of 150 cm width; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; 4 buttons
of 20 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Center back part – 2 pieces
2.
Side
back
part
– 2 pieces
3.
Side
front
part
– 2 pieces
5.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
6.
Collar
– 2 pieces
7.
Center
front
part
– 2 pieces
8.
Front band – 2 pieces
9.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
4.
Sacking
– 4 pieces
11.
Center
back
part
– 1 folded
piece
12.
Side
back
part
– 2 pieces
13.
Side
front
part
– 2 pieces
14.
Center
front
part
– 2 pieces
15.
Upper
sleeve
– 2 pieces
16.
Lower
sleeve
– 2 pieces
Fusing:
off-set welt, collar, center front part, front
band.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, collar, center front part, front band.
2.
Stitch middle back seam, darts, back relieve seams.
3.
Overstitch off-set welt along short edges and press folds. Make decorative
stitch along off-set welt at 1.0 cm distance from welt. Coincide open edges of off-set welt with bulk seam’s edge of
center front part: lay the welt on right side of center front part and coincide
off-set welt’s upper edge with the notch. Tack upper part of sacking to the
welt. Lay lower part of sacking on right side of side front
part. Stitch the welt and sackings. Stitch bulk seams excepting pocket
entrance. Fold sackings inside, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch
welts’ short edges on front side, along decorative stitch.
4.
Stitch jacket’s side seams.
5.
Stitch shoulder seams.
6.
Overstitch the collar along ends and collar fall, turn it right side out and
press it. Lay the collar on neckline right sides together (according to marks)
and tack the, together.
7.
Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart. Stitch seams into armholes according
to marks. Press sleeve hems into wrong side.
8.
Sew shoulder pads.
9.
Stitch lining details together in the same way as fabric ones, excluding a
segment of about 20 cm length into one of elbow seams. Stitch front bands to
lining. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding them along middle back line and shoulder seams.
Overstitch the garment with lining along edgings and neckline. Make lapping
pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side
out through unstitches segment into sleeve, then stitch this segment. Sew lining
sleeve hem to sleeve hem.
10.
Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left front
part.