YOU
NEED:
natural/artificial suede; lining; 4 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Inner
collar – 2 pieces
2.
Outer
collar – 1
folded
piece
3.
Inner stand-up collar – 1 folded piece
4.
Outer stand-up collar – 1 folded piece
5.
Front
fringe – 2
pieces
6.
Back
fringe – 1
piece
7.
Pocket – 2 pieces
9.
Back
yoke – 1
folded
piece
10.
Middle back part – 2 pieces
11.
Lower
back part – 2 pieces
12.
Middle
front part – 2 pieces
13.
Lower
front part – 2 pieces
14.
Front band – 2 pieces
15.
Front yoke – 2 pieces
16.
Back
sleeve – 2
pieces
17.
Front
sleeve – 2
pieces
18.
Slit
facing – 4
pieces
Lining:
8.
Pocket – 2 pieces
19.
Back
part – 1 folded piece
20.
Front part – 2 pieces
21.
Back
sleeve – 2
pieces
22.
Front sleeve – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Make 4 overcast buttonholes into right front part: cut 10 stripes of 5 cm length
(=facing of buttonhole) from piping braid and press them along the center.
Stitch 2 facings on each 0.75-cm distance from slit mart along upper/lower
lines, so that open edges of facings meet strictly in buttonhole’s center. Cut
the front part between stitches (stop cutting before ends), cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut
facings! Make a neat frame of facings. Turn facings’ ends and small triangles
into wrong side. Topstitch triangles facings at wrong side.
2.
Stitch lower back part to upper back part. Stitch back yoke to middle back part
inserting a stripe for fringe. Turn the seam towards the yoke and topstitch.
Stitch lower back part to middle back part.
3.
Stitch middle front part to upper front part inserting a stripe for fringe.
Stitch lower front part to middle front part.
4.
Lay pocket lining on fabric pocket and overstitch it along all edges excluding
small segment into upper edge. Cut extra fabric above seams and turn the pocket
right side out. Topstitch
the
pocket
on
front
part
along
marking.
5.
Stitch
shoulder/side
seams
towards
slit
mark.
6.
Stitch inner collar’s details. Stitch inner stand-up collar to inner collar;
stitch outer stand-up to outer collar. Lay inner collar on outer one right sides together and overstitch them along ends and collar
falls. Turn
the
collar
right
side
out.
7.
Stitch sleeve upper/lower seams. Press hem allowance into wrong
side.
8.
Stitch slit facings to lining front/back details. Stitch shoulder/side seams of
lining details to slit mark. Stitch lining sleeves leaving a
slit into one of seams for turning right side out. Stitch sleeves into
armholes. Stitch front bands to lining.
9.
Lay the lining on the garment right sides together inserting the collar between
necklines and overstitch along edgings, neckline and hem. Turn the garment right
side out, fold lining sleeve hems under and sew them to fabric sleeve
hems.
10.
Topstitch frames of overcast buttonholes along joining seam on front band. Cut
front band opposite buttonholes. Sew buttons on left front part.
11.
Cut the fringe neatly.