YOU NEED: whipcord; warmer; fusing; lining; 8 studs; 2 eyelets;
cord.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
3. Right front part – 1 piece
6. Left front part – 1 piece
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Placket – 1 piece
10. Collar – 2 pieces
11. Neckline placket – 1 piece
12. Upper hood – 1 piece
13. Lower hood – 1 piece
14. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Sacking – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Upper hood – 1 piece
6. Lower hood – 1 piece
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Warmer: apply the
warmer to wrong side of back/front parts, sleeves, âupper/lower hoods, outer collar
(topstitch warmer according to marks).
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of off-set welt.
2. Make SLIT POCKETS WITH OFF-SET WELT at side
front parts: press off-set welts along the center right side out. Apply 2-cm
stripe of fusing to wrong side of front part above pocket marking. Lay pocket
welt and fabric sacking on front part, right sides together, pin along pocket
entrance marking and stitch (welt lengthwise/sacking edges must coincide with
pocket marking center). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally to stitch
ends. Do not cut welts and sackings! Press seam allowances apart. Turn welts
and sackings to wrong side through a slit, then tack. Lay lower sacking on welt
at front wrong side (turn sacking upwards), and topstitch the welt on joining
seam on right side, catching sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangles
at slit ends to wrong side and stitch, with welts ends, strictly between upper
stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sacking, adjust and stitch.
3. Stitch side/shoulder edges.
4. Lay outer collar and inner collar right sides
together and overstitch them along ends and flying part. Turn the collar right
side out and press it.
5. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch
sleeves into armholes. Press garment/sleeve hems into wrong side.
6. Stitch fabric hoods and lining
hoods together. Lay fabric hood on the lining one right sides together and
overstitch along outer edge. Turn the hood right side out and topstitch along
edges.
7. Sew lining details leaving a hole
(to turn the garment right side out) into one of sleeves.
Stitch the placket to right front edging.
Stitch front band to lining. Lay the lining on the garment and overstitch along
all edges inserting the hood and the collar between lining neckline and garment
neckline. Turn the garment right side out and stitch hole’s edges together.
Topstitch the placket along joining seam. Sew lining sleeve hem to fabric hem
allowance neatly.
8.
Set upper studs into right placket/right collar edge, set lower studs into left
front edgings and left collar edge.