YOU NEED: poplin;
fusing; zipper.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Flap – 4 pieces
2. Back part – 2
pieces
3. Side part – 2
pieces
4. Front part – 1
folded piece
5. Neckline facing –
1 piece
6. Tie – 2 pieces
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: flap
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of flaps.
2. Stitch
middle back seam between marks. Neaten seam allowances and press them apart,
press lit edges.
3. Stitch
side parts to back part.
4. Lay
flaps in pairs and overstitch along three sides. Turn details right side out
and press. Topstitch flaps at 0.1 cm from edges. Neaten open edge and topstitch on back/side
parts.
5. Stitch
side parts to front part, stitch shoulder seams.
6. Tack
the zipper under slit edges with its teeth hidden, then stitch at 0.5 cm
distance.
6. Press
the facing along the center right side out. Cut neckline edge to 0.5 cm. Stitch
the facing to neckline edge with 0.5 cm seam right sides together. Fold the
facing into wrong side rounding the seam and topstitch along joining seam. Fold
facing edges near the zipper and sew by hand.
7. Stitch
sleeve seams. Neaten seam allowances and press them apart. Press sleeve hems
into wrong side, fold edges under and topstitch.
8. Stitch
sleeves in, easing along sleeve caps between marks. To do this, make large
machine stitches along both sides of the line of joining sea and pull the
fabric slightly on lower thread. Pin the sleeve into armhole first along lower
segment of the armhole coinciding sleeve seam and side seam as well as transverse
marks on front part and sleeve. Do not ease neither armhole nor the sleeve. Pin
the sleeve above shoulder seam coinciding the seam and transverse mark on
sleeve cap. Pin the sleeve along armhole’s upper segment easing the sleeve.
Tack and stitch sleeves into armholes at sleeve side; begin stitching at sleeve
seams. Neaten seam allowances together. Press seam allowances toward sleeves at
sleeve cap segments.
9. Press
hem allowance into wrong side, fold under and topstitch making a coulisse.
Stitch tie pieces together. Lay the tie along the center wrong side out and
overstitch long/short edges. Turn the detail right side out and press. Pull the tie into the coulisse.