YOU
NEED:
whip-cord/fabric suitable for cloak; lining; fusing; 2 holders of width; 6
buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Back part – 1 folded piece
2.
Back half-belt – 2 pieces
3.
Front
half-belt – 2 pieces
4.
Off-set welt – 2 pieces
5.
Sacking
lower
part – 2
pieces
6.
Sacking
upper
part – 2
pieces
7.
Front part one-piece with front band – 2 pieces
8.
Outer
collar – 1
folded
piece
9.
Inner
collar – 1
folded
piece
10.
Upper
sleeve – 2
pieces
11.
Lower
sleeve – 2
pieces
12.
Cuff – 2 pieces
Lining:
13.
Back part – 1 folded piece
14.
Front part – 2 pieces
15.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
16.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
off-set welt, front band, outer collar, cuffs.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, front band, outer collar,
cuffs.
2. Cut
side front slit pockets with welts: stitch welts along short edges, turn them
right side out and press. Topstitch the bending along the edge. Apply the stripe
of fusing of 4 cm width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay off-set welt and
sacking upper part on front part, right sides together, pin them together along
pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of
facings coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part
between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings!
Turn welts and sackings wrong side out through the slit and tack. Lay sacking
lower part on front part’s wrong side on welt (lay sacking upward); topstitch
the welt on right side along joining seam catching the sacking. Press sacking
downwards. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch
accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings,
adjust, and stitch them together. Topstitch off-set welt on front part along
short edges.
3.
Fold half-belt along the center wrong side out and overstitch it along one of
long and both short edges. Turn it right side out, press and topstitch along the
center. Set back half-belt into holder. Topstitch
half-belts on front/back parts according to marks.
4.
Stitch shoulder/side seams.
5.
Lay inner collar on outer one right sides together, and
overstitch along ends and collar fall. Turn the collar right side out, and press
it.
6.
Stitch sleeve lower seam and upper seam up to slit mark. Stitch
sleeves
into
armholes.
7.
Stitch lining details (stitch sleeve upper seam towards slit mark) leaving a
slit to turn details right side out. Fold front bands into right side. Lay the
lining on garment right sides together inserting the collar between neckline
edges, and overstitch along edgings, the neckline and the hem. Turn the garment
right side out. Coincide fabric sleeve upper seams with lining sleeve upper
seams and stitch them together at sleeve slit level.
8.
Fold cuffs along the center wrong side out and overstitch short edges. Turn them
right side out, then press.
9.
Stitch cuffs to sleeves right sides together. Fold cuffs downwards, press
joining seam towards cuffs. Fold cuff inner edge and topstitch it along joining
seam.
10.
Make buttonholes into right edging and cuffs, sew
buttons correspondingly.