7079 ¾ TROUSERS FOR GIRLS

YOU NEED: denim; fusing; zipper; 7 buttons; decorative cord; elastic braid.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem, 3 cm for pocket upper edge.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Pocket – 2 pieces

2. Flap – 4 pieces

3. Front pocket side part – 2 pieces

4. Front part – 2 pieces

5. Back part – 2 pieces

6. Belt loop – 8 pieces

7. Waistband – 1 piece

8. Side pocket – 2 pieces

9. Button catch – 1 piece

Fusing: waistband, side flap.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband, side flap.

2. Stitch back darts. Press darts towards back part center.

3. Fold flap details right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through upper open edge. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from flap edge.

4. Press box pleats into pockets (box pleat is inverted pleat's wrong side). Fix box pleats with 1-cm stitch at upper/lower edges of pocket.

5. Neaten pocket upper edge, fold it under and topstitch it. Neaten outer edge of front pocket side edge and press it at 1 cm. Stitch front pocket side part to the pocket. Neaten joining seam. Trim pocket side upper edge, fold it under and topstitch at 1 cm from edge. Fix side part to pocket with vertical stitch. Mark pocket place on front part. Topstitch the pocket on front part.

6. Mark pocket place on front part. Topstitch the pocket according to marks. Fold the pocket into wrong side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from topstitching.

7. Stitch garment side seam and neaten it. Press side seam backwards. Neaten side pocket upper edge, fold it into pocket’s wrong side and topstitch. Neaten the pocket along the contour and press it according to pattern. Mark pocket place and topstitch at 0.5 cm from pocket edge. Set fixes at pocket upper corners.

8. Cut fabric coulisses. Neaten coulisses along the contour. Press coulisses into wrong side at 1cm. Topstitch coulisse short edge’s allowance at 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark coulisses place and topstitch them at 0.2 cm from the edge. Cut decorative cord and pull it into coulisses. Our advice: you can also use braid of fabric’s colour instead of cord.

9. Neaten front/middle edges of garment parts as well as garment hems. Stitch leg inside seams and neaten them. Press leg inside seams backwards. Stitch front edge and middle edge up to closure notch. Make another stitch along crotch seam close to seam joining front and middle seams.

10. Press one-piece closure facing into wrong side. Stitch the zipper edges closure left allowance. Stitch zipper free braid to right one-piece facing. Fold button catch details right sides together and overstitch along two sides. Overstitch button catch long edge. Topstitch closure one-piece facing on left part button catch. Topstitch slit right edge catching facings.

11. Fold belt loop details right sides together and overstitch them along contour leaving upper edge unstitches. Turn belt loop right side out and press ready detail.

12. Press the waistband along the center right side out and neaten waistband lower inner edge.

13. Stitch the waistband to garment upper edge. Cut elastic braid in accordance with the size and topstitch on waistband by two sides (from front/back belt loops levels). Overstitch belt ends, cut seam allowances in corners and turn the detail right side out. Topstitch waistband neatened lower edge on joining seam and press ready waistband. Topstitch belt loops.

14. Make belt loops into waistband, belt loops and flap. Sew buttons.