YOU NEED: denim; fusing; 5 studs.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 2 cm for garment/sleeve hems.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1 piece
2. Center back part – 1 piece
3. Lower back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 2 pieces
6. Lower front part – 2 pieces
7. Side front part – 2 pieces
8. Upper pocket – 2 pieces
9. Upper flap – 4 pieces
10. Lower pocket – 2 pieces
11. Lower flap – 4 pieces
12. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
13. Elbow part – 2 pieces
14. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
15. Cuff – 2 pieces
Fusing: outer stand-up
collar, flaps.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Cut fusing for one-piece front band.
2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of flaps, front band and outer
stand-up collar.
3. Lay flaps right
sides together and overstitch them. Cut rounded corners’ allowances and turn
flaps right side out. Topstitch flap’s outer contour at 0.5 cm from the edge.
Neaten flap’s upper edge.
4. Press inverted
pleat into the pocket. Topstitch pleat’s bends at 0.1 cm distance. Fix the
pleat with a stitch (0.5 cm from upper/lower edges of the pocket). Neaten the
pocket along the contour and press it corresponding to the pattern. Topstitch
upper edge on the pocket.
5. Lay upper collar in inner stand-up and overstitch them along outer
contour. Cut allowances of stand-up’s rounded corners and turn the stand-up
right side out. Press the stand-up.
6. Stitch darts into side front part. Press it toward the center.
Topstitch
darts at 0.1 cm
distance.
7. Stitch front/back relieves. Neaten front/back relieves. Topstitch at 0.5 cm
from relieve joining
seams.
8. Stitch lower pieces to front/back parts. Neaten seams, then press
them. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from joining
seams.
9. Topstitch
pockets on front parts along contour at 0.2 cm from pockets’ edges. Topstitch
flaps on tacking. Fold flaps into right side and topstitch them at 0.5 cm from
seams.
10. Stitch the yoke to back part. Neaten the seam and press it upwards.
Topstitch
at 0.5 cm from joining
seam.
11. Stitch shoulder seams and neaten them. Press shoulder seams
backwards.
12. Neaten front bands' edges. Fold one-piece front band into right side
and overstitch upper corner up to the mark. Slash the neckline at mark’s level,
0.1-0.2 cm before front band.
13. Stitch outer stand-up into the neckline, fold
inner stand-up’s open edge under and topstitch along the seam joining outer
stand-up. Topstitch the stand-up collar.
14. Neaten elbow edge. Stitch the elbow seam up to slit notch. Press
elbow seam apart and topstitch slit’s allowance on the sleeve at 0.5 cm
distance. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from elbow
seam.
15. Stitch sleeves into open armholes according to notches. Stitch
jacket’s side edge and sleeve’s lower edge with one stitch, then neaten and
press backwards. Make a pleat into sleeve hem and fix it with a stitch at 0.5
cm from the edge.
16. Fold cuffs along the center and
overstitch along outer contour leaving the edge free.
17. Stitch upper cuff to sleeve hem.
Overstitch cuff’s corners. Fold inner cuff’s upper edge under at 1 c, and
topstitch along the seam joining outer cuff. Topstitch along cuff’s contour.
18.
Set studs into
front parts and
into cuffs.